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[middy]

Omega 2.2 Dti
EML Light came up, rev counter shut down, car went into limp home mode.

Read the fault codes with my own "My Naff Code Reader" got codes P1335 Injection pump, no engine speed input signal from control unit & P0725 Engine speed sensor no signal, not present.

Did some digging around on internet forums and the fault of choice is The crank sensor.

I've had issues with the injection pump control module a couple of months back (angle of rotation sensor replaced on it), I'm making an assumption here that it is possible that the control module could have gone kaput and is no longer talking to the crank sensor, and i'm hoping someone will tell me i'm a silly billy and thats not the problem ! (replacing the control module would mean a new fuel pump which is not economically viable).

Anywho..

I bought a non-genuine crank sensor form a local shop, purely because it was the nearest option and i dont really live close to a genuine parts supplier.

Long story short........it did'nt work. I metered the old sensor after removal which measured in at 860 OHMS, and the new one at around 920 OHMS.

I fitted the new one regardless, car started up fine but once it ran upto operating temp the fault kicked back in. As i could'nt clear the fault off with the "My Naff Code Reader" i was'nt suprised.

To make matters worse i've managed to introduce 2 new faults. It was suggested to me to disconnect the MAF and see if it ran a little smoother as this could be the fault. All that happened here was that it threw up P0110(1) MAF signal voltage high not present, no amount of tinkering will make the fault clear !

A short while after this(and i promise i did'nt touch anything essential !) it threw up P0400(3) critical system malfunction, which is the EGR valve fault but could be any number of things :-(

Anyone want to buy an Elite Dti ? it's a lovely non-runner :-)


I would really appriciate some advice chaps...Thanks.

[freecall666]

i you put your area on some one maby able to come see you about your problem.

[middy]

Thanks Freecall666.....Im in Hull

[middy]

Spent another day playing around with this. Have been following the TIS fault guide forwards backwards and side ways, to my mind everything points back to the new crank sensor.
Points to note..

• The measured resistance across terminals 1 & 2 of the crank sensor when the fault is not present is around 900 - 1000 ohms

• The measured resistance across terminals 1 & 2 of the crank sensor when the fault is present is Infinity

This cycle continuously repeats each time the engine is run long enough for the fault to reappear (infinate resistance), and allowed to stand (900-1000 ohms). The transition time between the two extremes of measurement is almost instantaneous, by that i mean there does'nt seem to be a gradual roll off of resistance , during the 5 min or so the sensor takes to switch back into working mode it will go from infinate back to the working range in a snap.

I think it's fair to say that the sensor resistance is going open circuit as temperature increases.

Anyone have anything to add before i dispose of some more cash ?