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[Auto Addict]

Had several calls from a mate yesterday, he was trying to change his oil (2.5 V6 estate).

He said the oil filter cap was turning but not un-screwing?

Any ideas please?

[fiend61]

sure it hasn't unscrewed and just being held on by gunk :-? the thing he doesnt want to hear is that thread has sheared 
if it has undone enough to turn by hand try putting a screwdriver in the gap to apply pressure outwards whilst turning hopefully the threads will recatch 

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds like the paper element type and the lid has been overtightened?

Try to counterhold the filter body with a filter strap wrench perhaps?

Kevin

[Auto Addict]

From what he explained over the phone, it was very stiff, and just kept turning and turning. Does sound like it's turning the filter body as well.

[TheBoy]

Sounds like it is turning housing. Best thing to do now is to hold housing, and break the seal on the cap, then remove housing altogether, and refit all as per TIS

[Auto Addict]

Sounds like it is turning housing. Best thing to do now is to hold housing, and break the seal on the cap, then remove housing altogether, and refit all as per TIS

Can you e-mail me the instructions off TIS please?

[TheBoy]

Cant do pics due to a Win7 issue with my PDF generator...




Oil Filter Housing, Remove and Install (as of MY 1999)

  Remove
Detach oil filter housing cover (1) and remove with oil filter insert (3) – place collecting basin underneath.

Remove fastening bolt (4) and remove oil filter housing (5).

  Install
Attach oil filter housing with new seal ring (6) to cylinder block – tightening torque 45 Nm / 33 lbf. ft.

Attach oil filter housing cover to oil filter housing with new seal ring (2) and new oil filter insert – tightening torque 25 Nm / 18.5 lbf. ft. 15Nm (TIS is wrong - get figure from the stamp on the cap!)

  Inspect
Check engine oil level and correct if necessary.
 

[TheBoy]

[TheBoy]

Should be OK to reused housing to block seal if its still soft, and undamaged.

[Auto Addict]

Thanks for that

[Cliffo B]

There is something strange about these filter houseings, IMHO it has something to do with the sealing O ring tightening up, or adhereing itself within the housing my reason for comeing to this conclusion is a few months back I did an oil change, and also replaced the filter and lid sealing ring. I am allways very particular about tightening torques and in this case the lid, complete with new O ring, lubed up with engine oil, screwed in nicely by hand untill contact with lid to outer case was made. I then nipped up the lid to 15NM as per the cast spec on the lid no probs I thought we all know what thought did!! A week or so later I needed to validate the lack of swarf in the engine oil sump and also the filter with regard to a contaminated crank shaft sensor issue,The lid would NOT RELEASE. Infact I consider it lucky that the case itself finally moved and broke off the flange on the base of the filter that locates in the engine block,this allowed me to wangle the housing away complete. Even with the housing held by a bench vice it needed a breaker bar + a 24mm 6 point socket to release the cap, needless to say I now have the 'spin on' filter mod.Frankly its a mystery to me how this could tighten up to the extent that it did in such a short time it most definitely was NOT overtightened I still have the offending housing and O seal and again I have examined them and with my limited experience can only return to my conclusion that the O seal being the only new part in the assembly it has to be faulty perhaps of the wrong composition,again at the risk of being a bore can I reiterate  the lid was screwed up to 15NM and no more.

[Andy B]

There is something strange about these filter houseings, IMHO it has something to do with the sealing O ring tightening up, or adhereing itself within the housing my reason for comeing to this conclusion is a few months back I did an oil change, and also replaced the filter and lid sealing ring. I am allways very particular about tightening torques and in this case the lid, complete with new O ring, lubed up with engine oil, screwed in nicely by hand untill contact with lid to outer case was made. I then nipped up the lid to 15NM as per the cast spec on the lid no probs I thought we all know what thought did!! A week or so later I needed to validate the lack of swarf in the engine oil sump and also the filter with regard to a contaminated crank shaft sensor issue,The lid would NOT RELEASE. Infact I consider it lucky that the case itself finally moved and broke off the flange on the base of the filter that locates in the engine block,this allowed me to wangle the housing away complete. Even with the housing held by a bench vice it needed a breaker bar + a 24mm 6 point socket to release the cap, needless to say I now have the 'spin on' filter mod.Frankly its a mystery to me how this could tighten up to the extent that it did in such a short time it most definitely was NOT overtightened I still have the offending housing and O seal and again I have examined them and with my limited experience can only return to my conclusion that the O seal being the only new part in the assembly it has to be faulty perhaps of the wrong composition,again at the risk of being a bore can I reiterate  the lid was screwed up to 15NM and no more.

It's a rubber 'O' ring, how can it lock up the ally filter housing?  :-/ I'm not doubting the problems you had, but I've never had any problems with mine. 

[robson]

I  have purchased the conversion kit incase I ever have the same problem. My previous V6 1996 had a spin on filter why on earth did VX change to this cannister design.

[Andy B]

I  have purchased the conversion kit incase I ever have the same problem. My previous V6 1996 had a spin on filter why on earth did VX change to this cannister design.

cars had the canister type filter years before the metal throw-away cartridge type, and now we've gone full circle again.  :-/
There's nothing wrong with the actual design, it's tried & tested.

[Cliffo B]

Well Andy I hear what your possibly saying and again I can only say 15NM was the torque used and just over a week later about 300mls the Ba****d would not shift I was only hopeing an explanation would be forthcomeing I did a detailed explanation in the hope it would reveal the cause after all the post started with Auto Addicts contact haveing the same problem can I put this to you hypothetically if I filled the O ring lid recess with a sealer such as Sikaflex then could you not expect it to lock up almost solid as it appears in my case to have done? I'm simply saying the rubber O ring may have become more adhesive or swollen than expected due to it haveing the wrong chemical composition