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[kcl]

I changed one more rear wheel bearing last night. The old one kept horrible noise and you could feel a significant play in it in 12-6 direction.

Well, I put in the new one, had some trouble getting the inner flange back on and guess what I found when the wheel was back on? There's still play!!!!

What could it be? What would cause the play? The nut is as tight as it is possible to get with all available pipes etc attached to socket so I 'm pretty sure I have reached the required 320 Nm.

[serek]

I changed one more rear wheel bearing last night. The old one kept horrible noise and you could feel a significant play in it in 12-6 direction.

Well, I put in the new one, had some trouble getting the inner flange back on and guess what I found when the wheel was back on? There's still play!!!!

What could it be? What would cause the play? The nut is as tight as it is possible to get with all available pipes etc attached to socket so I 'm pretty sure I have reached the required 320 Nm.

poor quality bearing
or wrong fitting

[kcl]

SKF bearing and how can you fit it wrong? Bearing in the housing all the way, lock ring on it's place, rear flange heated and put on as far as possible...

[Cliffo B]

How did you get it fitted without the use of a hydraulic press?sorry to say if you used a Big Berther hammer and heat then I think you could have damaged either the bearing or the hub or even both

[kcl]

You mean the bearing or the flange? Bearing goes in well if you put in the freezer for three hours and heat the housing ( I used an electric heat gun), with enough heat and cold it will just slide in. This applies to the hub as well, hub in the freezer and heat to the bearing, couple of taps with a plastic headed mallet does the job  The flange went in after serious heating, it had to be very hot to go all the way in the splines

[Marks DTM Calib]

Nothing wrong with the fitting method and a big hammer will work with the correct drifts.

If it was a bearing issue I would expect play in other positions of the wheel as it was rotated.

So the question is, is it the bearing or is the trailing arm moving or the rear tie rod ball joint goosed?

[kcl]

It very much seems to be the bearing, I can almost see it move abit. No play in direction of drive shaft (in/out), nor in 3-9 direction, only in 12-6. Will have to check the tie rod, it does sound like a good possibility  And IIRC (yes, it was dark and cold last night  ) the inner end of the tie rod was covered in grease...

[Cliffo B]

Could the bearing be the wrong spec?when I did mine I removed the wishbone and simply could not get the old original bearing off, it was in far to tight so finished up at a small engineering workshop who used a press to press out the old and press in the new

[kcl]

I don't think it is wrong spec, I've used the same ones in previous two and the markings were correct.

I know removal can be a pain. I have always succeeded with only a threaded bar and suitable flanges and a bit of a heavy pipe (where the old bearing fits when it's coming out).

[Cliffo B]

Previous two? Does this mean you've replaced the bearings before? If so I think that the bearing wear rate is a bit extreme.

[feeutfo]

I still reckon replacing the whole arm sounds easier....? Never had the issue personally, please god. 

[feeutfo]

Previous two? Does this mean you've replaced the bearings before? If so I think that the bearing wear rate is a bit extreme.

From previous posts I believe kcl runs his own workshop, so probably not all on one car....    .   and I'm fairly sure is responsible for bringing the pedal trick to the forums attention.... If memory serves...?

[kcl]

Previous two? Does this mean you've replaced the bearings before? If so I think that the bearing wear rate is a bit extreme.

From previous posts I believe kcl runs his own workshop, so probably not all on one car....    .   and I'm fairly sure is responsible for bringing the pedal trick to the forums attention.... If memory serves...?

  Yes, not all on the same car, in fact two cars; one both sides and the current one the left side. Previous was driven about 180 000 km when the first went, second one was around 210 000km. The first was clearly due water getting inside the bearing, too heavy jet wash or something. The second was just a bit noisy, was no play in neither of these. Well, thi scar was just written off due an accident and last week I bought the current one, 150 000 km on the clock and the sound was horrible!!! It really was bad and loud, now it's quiet but still the play is present.

And yes, it really was me to bring in the pedal trick to the forum (where's my medal of honour  )

And no, I'm not a professional, nor running a workshop, fixing Omegas purely for my own transport purposes and only as a hobby (or out of necessity, how you want it...) 

[Cliffo B]

Can I complement and thank you for the pedal trick,a real usefull Miggy asset

[Cliffo B]

as regards your bearing problem hopefully there now is'nt one the play could be in the rod when you can properly check it out