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Author Topic: Rear shock replacement  (Read 1488 times)

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Trothy

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Rear shock replacement
« on: 02 February 2011, 12:45:47 »

I just seem to be having no luck with my mig recently.  As these got an advisory on the MOT and the guide looked simple enough figured I'd replace my rear shocks.

All went well except when I came to undo the top nuts.  When the last shocks were fitted someone has used some kind of threadlock on the nut.  Tried holding the top section while trying to undo it but it just spins.  I bought a nut splitter but because of the way the metal washer under the nut fits, it won't split the nut.

Anyone got any idea what I should try next?

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djac

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #1 on: 02 February 2011, 12:49:01 »

Quote
I just seem to be having no luck with my mig recently.  As these got an advisory on the MOT and the guide looked simple enough figured I'd replace my rear shocks.

All went well except when I came to undo the top nuts.  When the last shocks were fitted someone has used some kind of threadlock on the nut.  Tried holding the top section while trying to undo it but it just spins.  I bought a nut splitter but because of the way the metal washer under the nut fits, it won't split the nut.

Anyone got any idea what I should try next?


What have you tried holding the top section with? There are 2 flat surfaces either side of the top part which you can get an adjustable spanner on.
« Last Edit: 02 February 2011, 12:50:01 by djac »
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kcl

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #2 on: 02 February 2011, 12:51:10 »

I had similar issues with my previous estate, the top nuts were really seized. Tried heating etc wihtout any luck. Finally managed to split the nuts with a chisel and some extreme hammering.

With a Dremel or similar you might be able to saw/split the nut more easily  :-/

So, splitting the nut somehow is the only possibility I can come up with.
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kcl

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #3 on: 02 February 2011, 12:52:48 »

Quote
Quote
I just seem to be having no luck with my mig recently.  As these got an advisory on the MOT and the guide looked simple enough figured I'd replace my rear shocks.

All went well except when I came to undo the top nuts.  When the last shocks were fitted someone has used some kind of threadlock on the nut.  Tried holding the top section while trying to undo it but it just spins.  I bought a nut splitter but because of the way the metal washer under the nut fits, it won't split the nut.

Anyone got any idea what I should try next?


What have you tried holding the top section with? There are 2 flat surfaces either side of the top part which you can get an adjustable spanner on.

The top with the flats mentioned is only some 7 mm wide so it's very diffcult to hold the shaft from there if the nut is really stuck
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Trothy

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #4 on: 02 February 2011, 12:55:31 »

Off the two my NS one still has the two flat bits, tried a locking adjustable on that and it  just slipped, the OS looks like someone has tried in the past with molegrips as it's all chewed up.  Tried the adjustable on that but had even less luck that. 

As I say it looks like someone has tried in the past and given up :/

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Trothy

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #5 on: 02 February 2011, 12:56:15 »

Chisel or dremel it is then.  Thanks guys :)
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djac

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #6 on: 02 February 2011, 13:01:40 »

Just a thought, any way you could secure the top part of the shock under the wheel arch? Strap wrench or something of that sort?  :-/
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Varche

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #7 on: 02 February 2011, 16:02:21 »

I had a similar problem on one of mine. Before resorting to a hacksaw, I thought I would try holding the large metal washer in a pair of adjustables and unscrewing the nut. Amazingly it worked.

I had used plus gas on it before so might just have been a co incidence!
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Trothy

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #8 on: 02 February 2011, 16:13:33 »

Well will head off to machinemart tomorrow and grab a hacksaw and cold chisel.  Pretty sure the money I've saved in Mechanics fees I've spent on tools in the last 8 months.  But I love tools so its all good :D

Quick question, it won't do any harm for me to chisel/hacksaw off the nut off prior to jacking up the car right? 

Its damn awkward getting at the nut once the car is up in the air.
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lee4206

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #9 on: 02 February 2011, 18:12:31 »

If you pull the dust cover down you can get a pair of mole grips on the rod under the arch(get them as close to the top as poss as its normally rusty so they grip better).
Much easier than hacksaw or chisel.
lee
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #10 on: 02 February 2011, 22:31:38 »

My estate ones were seized solid. Managed to force them about a quarter turn before they sheared off.  :o

Which made life alot easier... ::)
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doug4293

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #11 on: 03 February 2011, 06:21:06 »

Grinder to the nuts  ! ::)
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addy

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #12 on: 03 February 2011, 17:00:44 »

I had this problem with both sides, what I did was with the wheel off see if you can see the top part of the shock absorber inside the wheel arch, mine were covered by a plastic cover which I ripped off.  Then grind the rod on two sides to make a flat part, use a pair of stilsons to push in the opposite direction to the way the top nut inside the car is being undone, one of two things will happen, the nut will undo or the threaded part will shear, either way problem solved.  If you have a second pair of hands to hold the stilsons all the better, but it can be done by wedging them against the inner wheelarch.

Hope this makes sense and helps.  Good luck.
« Last Edit: 03 February 2011, 17:01:56 by remington »
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Trothy

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Re: Rear shock replacement
« Reply #13 on: 06 February 2011, 12:20:46 »

Quick update guys, dremel with cut off wheel (x16 to allow for breakages/wearing down) followed by a quick few taps with a chisel cracked the nuts off.  Slow going though.  After that was a simple twenty minute a side job.  Thanks for the tips and suggestions.
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