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[amba]

Sorry but just a quick question re above.

Is it better to have both sides off the ground when replacing springs or should it be ok with one side at a time.

Reason I ask is if car is on stands..you need a jack under each both rear hubs to support and also another jack under diff to allow to be dropped slightly.

That means I will need 3, plus several axle stands .Seems a lot of equipment which I will struggle to source....or am I missing something in the process.

[Bent valve]

Someone suggested a different method on here recently, that didnt involve dropping the diff. Im fairly sure you can raise one side at a time if you do it as was suggested.

[amba]

Remember reading somebody just jacked one side..removed bottom shocker bolt and then "wedged a bar under trailling arm to create gap to remove and then replace spring".Think they also needed somebody to stand!!!on the bar to apply extra force.

Not the way I intend doing it as it sounds fraut with potential issues let alone saftey .

My concern was the ammount of lifting and supporting bits required if the entire rear was lifted..can see how this would not apply with a garage poster ramp.

[Bent valve]

Remember reading somebody just jacked one side..removed bottom shocker bolt and then "wedged a bar under trailling arm to create gap to remove and then replace spring".Think they also needed somebody to stand!!!on the bar to apply extra force.

Not the way I intend doing it as it sounds fraut with potential issues let alone saftey .

My concern was the ammount of lifting and supporting bits required if the entire rear was lifted..can see how this would not apply with a garage poster ramp.

I wouldnt worry about using a bar, it is common practice when working on suspension systems.
But if you dont like the idea, another member suggested that if you use a spring compressor you needn't bother with the bar.

[amba]

Yes spring compressor is the route I will be going down.....just my question is regarding the usage and positioning of axle stands and jacks.

Car supported on stands...just both sides or one ?

How many jacks required ?

[feeutfo]

See the guide in mainatanace, two stands one jack required. Just to add this procedure is made easier by unhooking the exhaust allowing the dif to drop a lttle further, but only do this if the exhaust is in good nic, the usual rusty section by the back box may fail if stressed.

Dropping the diff sounds drastic but it really isnt, in essence its four bolts, plus brake pipes and sensor unhooking to make sure nothing gets damaged, go the tested route imo.

[tunnie]

had to use spring compressors on the front springs, I would not use them on the rear, its dead easy to drop the diff, and nice and easy to pop those new springs in.

Guide here works well 

[RussV6]

I've changed the springs using a bar (safer with 2 people) and with spring compressors (pain in the ar*e as very little room) last time I used the standard wheel jack, it fits onto the body seam under the wheel arch and sits nicely on top of the suspension arm, a few tries to get the right place then it will wind down easily  and its much safer and easier to do it this way.  I have never dropped the diff to change  springs. 

[feeutfo]

I've changed the springs using a bar (safer with 2 people) and with spring compressors (pain in the ar*e as very little room) last time I used the standard wheel jack, it fits onto the body seam under the wheel arch and sits nicely on top of the suspension arm, a few tries to get the right place then it will wind down easily  and its much safer and easier to do it this way.  I have never dropped the diff to change  springs. 

... And therefor cant comment on which easier!

Sorry to be blunt but you see my point. Dropping the dif is far easier, safer and easily done with one pearson.

Dropping the diff is a slightly misleading discription to be fiar, it actually involves dropping the whole rear of the subframe. This is only attached by two dif blocks by the diff and the two bolts through the rear sub frame bushes. Just remove the dif blocks and the rear of the subframe hinges down by releasing the jack. Its an hours work iirc!

Plus, its all very well posting alternative procedures etc, but remember there differant levels of experience to take into account.

Follow the guide, its step by step, all you have ro do is follow it.

[RussV6]

Far easier than dropping the diff, lift car, remove wheel, remove shock absorber, wind down suspension arm. Simples 20 minutes max.

 As you say different levels of experience, I agree but would you want somebody with little experience dropping the rear subframe, messing with brake pipes etc. I think not. I've prob changed over 50 springs for a local taxi firm and this is by far the easiest, quickest and safest if you dont have a ramp to use.

[feeutfo]

Far easier than dropping the diff, lift car, remove wheel, remove shock absorber, wind down suspension arm. Simples 20 minutes max.

 As you say different levels of experience, I agree but would you want somebody with little experience dropping the rear subframe, messing with brake pipes etc. I think not. I've prob changed over 50 springs for a local taxi firm and this is by far the easiest, quickest and safest if you dont have a ramp to use.

Post a guide then. Lets see!

[RussV6]

The standard omega wheel jack will fit over the body seam under the wheel arch and you can wind down the suspension arm, it really is that simple.
 If somebody needs a guide to do that then they really shouldnt be allowed to take the wheel off. 

As for safety, not getting under the car at all has to be the safest for any job.

 next time I change one i'll post a pic of the jack in situ 

[TheBoy]

For those thinking of compressors, there isn't really room to get 3 compressors conveniently.  Its easier, as others said, to drop the rear subframe, which is quick and easy.

[amba]

Thanks all for several options.

I am sure I will sort it now,as have a plan A/B/C .

A...as per guide lowering unbolted diff
B...using spring compressors
C..jack in wheel arch to push trailing arm down.

Probably be a combination in part of all 3,but many thanks for advise.

[amba]

Well have replaced both rear s/l shocks and springs today and though I would just add some comments I have regarding the 3 options of fitting the rear springs.

A..by far the easiest route and don,t be put of by lowering rear diff.It is very straight forward and mine went back in the exact same place as removed.Did still have a bit of a struggle getting new springs onto location point at base so ended up using a spring compressor just to reduce spring length  slightly to get bottom pigtail over upstand on base rubber cap.

B..did try this to start but no where to succesfully locate spring compressor and despite winding spring as tight as I could get it still wouldnt come out so resorted to plan A

C...this method is very dubious and I wouldn,t recommend it at all.The jack wants to slide along the ridge in the top of the arch and how the hell do you keep it still and stable on the curved trailing arm.When I got the arm to go down the jack sprung out of its position and I ended up starting again.This would not be the method I would recommend,as feel it could also be quite dangerous if the jack hit you,apart from the creased metal on the inner wing.

Plan A is the way forward ,albeit in my case with a little help from a spring compressor.

Driving transformation is now quite dramatic and forgot what it was like to have rear suspension .Car now handles nicely and pleasant ride restored.

Next job this week is both rear donut bushes so see how that goes.