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[kcl]

Just did the pedal trick and found three codes. 0300, 0301 and 0115. First ones are for misfire in cyl #1. Have done the cam cover gaskets and put in new 4 electrode plugs 3000 km ago. Not running lumpy or missing so that I could tell so I'm not too worried. But why the 0115? I replaced the stat a while back and it was because the temp meter acted up (cooled while driving, rising again while statinary etc, classic symptoms) Everafter the new stat the meter has been correct, I can see the stat open and the needle stays in the middle. So nothing wrong. What might cause this 0115? Is there two temp sensors? One for meter and other for ECU? Locations? Possibly a loose wire? The sensor in the back of intake trumpets, is that the cause? Can I reach it without stripping all intake down again?

[TheBoy]

if 0115 is for coolant temp, it will be the one in the V - a simple spade connector.

Easier with scuttle off, or plenum off

[Abiton]

Or, the two pin one with a proper waterproof connector that tells the ECU about the temperature...

T'other one isn't seen at all by the ECU, is it?

[TheBoy]

Or, the two pin one with a proper waterproof connector that tells the ECU about the temperature...

T'other one isn't seen at all by the ECU, is it?

You're absolutely correct. Its the one with the 2 pin connector, mounted alongside the gauge one I mentioned.

My brain is mush, sorry

[kcl]

Thanks guys, you're brilliant! And quick! 

What are the odds that it would be a fubar sensor? When doing the stat and breathers etc I'm very sure it was not disconnected and it has been connected, e.g. when I got the car no codes were present.

[Abiton]

Thanks guys, you're brilliant! And quick! 

What are the odds that it would be a fubar sensor? When doing the stat and breathers etc I'm very sure it was not disconnected and it has been connected, e.g. when I got the car no codes were present.

If the wiring between it and the ECU is A-OK then pretty likely, I guess.  Cheaply-produced NTC thermistors tend not to last indefinitely, I believe.
 
That said, when ours threw codes, it was a wire to wire short, which killed it and its replacement, before I found the real problem. 
Different loom arrangements on the V6 though, so I don't know how vulnerable the wiring may be.

[kcl]

Thanks. Will have to check the wires asap. What is affected if I keep on driving with the code on? No warning lights are on etc and the fuel consumption seems reasonable...  :-/

[Abiton]

If it were reporting a silly-low temperature falsely, your engine will stay on cold-start fuelling strategy, and use shed loads of petrol and be near impossible to start when hot.  If it's reporting a false high temperature it may be hard to start from cold.

I wouldn't worry in the short term if you're seeing neither behaviour.

[kcl]

Now when you said that I remember two mornings two weeks back it was very hard to start. It was -25 degrees Celsius and it had been on the "block-heater" (dunno the word for this: http://wup.defa.com/en/wup_products_preheaters.html ) for an hour or so and it was a pain to start. So, it seems to report silly-high readings.

[Abiton]

Hmm, not sure.  "Block heater" is the perfect description, I have one on my Golf.

The thing is with these, the oil in the sump isn't getting much heat at all so it's like treacle when the temperature's that low, until the oil pump starts throwing it up the engine, but the coolant sensor will tell the ECU that it's a warm/hot-start situation, so a bit of a contradiction about what's really required to get the thing going.   :-/

[kcl]

Experience this morning: temperature +1 degrees. started ok. Reached normal operational temp without trouble. After that the tick over was nicely 550-600 rpm (from what can be seen from the needle...) and while stationery the consumption was 1,2 litres per hour. So everything is ok? Or is 1,2 too much? runs nicely etc...

[kcl]

One more regarding the 0115: will it go away when fixed or does it need to be Tech2:ed?

[Abiton]

Went away instantly on ours, but it's a 2.0 on the older ECU version with 2-digit fault codes.  Probably the same on yours, I'd guess.