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[Balthazar]

My original problem on my 2003 Omega 2.2CD has been resolved with a new HBV.

Sadly however the other issue of a misfire has now been diagnosed as a head gasket failure.

The garage has quoted £700. For amongst other things;

Head Gaskets
Skimming Head
Cambelt Kit
Tensioner
etc etc (it's quite a long list)

The cambelt service was completed after 130,000, so I'm not sure if  I can get away without changing that, or if it would reduce the cost that much anyway.

My car has done 138,000 miles, is this worth doing, or in reality is this a write off ??

Any help would be appreciated

Paul

[mantamania]

Hi,
My 2.2 had the same problem 2 years ago. I had never done a head gasket before but I bought every thing I would need and changed it my self.  Total cost £130 If you are mechanically minded it is not a too tricky job. I just followed the haynes manual for the 2.0 DOHC.  It is advisable to get a camshaft alignment tool to keep the camshafts still when refitting the belt.

[PhilRich]

Let us have a full list of symptoms & we will go from there. Why have the Garage diagnosed HG failure? :-/

[Balthazar]

Initially it was a water leak, and the HBV was at fault.

However  I checked a few times for mayo in filler cap / oil in water etc and there wasn't any.

The car didn't overheat, but the engine management light came on and the coolant level warning came on a few times.

The 3rd time it happened, I called out the AA as I didn't want to drive it, the AA man put pressure onto the filler tank and the water was spurting out of the HBV. I was probably about 20 miles form home and he said is was too far to tow, but I could drive it, to keep my eye on the temp, and he would follow. (in hindsight this was not a good idea) I got about 10 miles and and the temp went up to about 95/100 just short of the red. I pulled over and he towed me the rest of the way.

I drove it another 2/3 miles this morning and there was a misfire. I got it to the garage, and now there is some smoke (it wasn't really noticeable this morning) from the exhaust and the filler tank boils ?? The garage I took it to, is an ex vauxhall man and came highly recommended, so I would say he is probably right. (I just don't want to believe it)

Apart from the fact that I am not really mechanically minded, I like the idea of doing it myself, but in reality I'm not sure if I could.

Any advice would be a big help/

Paul

[Entwood]

When you say "the filler tank boils" ... do you really mean that .. IE you are getting boiling water and steam from the filler ?? or are you just getting "cold" bubbles of gas ??

If it is the first .. hot and steam .. then it could be a blockage in the cooling syatem causing "localised" overheating.

If it is "cold" gas bubbles then it is more likely the HG and you are getting combustion gases being forced into the cooling system.

A pressure test of the coolant system, or a compression test of the cylinders, would be my next step.

I would NOT go for the cheap "hydrocarbons present" type test as they can give false readings with either "old" coolant or an oil cooler problem, as both induce hydrocarbons into the water.

[PhilRich]

Whip the dispack out & check for oil or water in the plug wells. Also physically give the dispack a good looking over for cracks/splits/ missing bits on the plug cover boots as any of these can cause a missfire. After that, remove the plugs & give them the once over before dipping a long pencil/stick etc with a bit of dry rag or a cotton bud firmly fastened to it into each cylinder bore in turn to check for wetness. This is best done when the engine is cold & been stood overnight, as any wetness is less likely to be due to petrol, but give any signs of wetness a sniff & taste test  to rule it out.   

[Balthazar]

I have spoken to the garage again and confirmed.

The bubbles in the expansion are cold.

There is a misfire on idle

And smoke from the exhaust

Hes not sure how much damage has been done, and £75 could come off the bill if I don't choose to change the cambelt.

All cars require maintenance that sometimes may be at a cost that is questionable, but £625 on car that I paid £900 for seems a bit over the top.

For 20 years I have had corporate lease hire vehicles, that i never even looked at the engine (I regret that now). I lost my job and am now doing something different, I chose to avoid the monthly lease option, and decided that I wanted to buy a cheap car and look after it, and I have fallen at the first.

Is it practical that I could do the repair ?

Can I use a product called K Weld ? (don't answer this one as I don't really like the idea  )

Is my car (Omega 2003 CD 2.2 138,000) actually worth anything, or is it time for the scrap yard ?

Please let me know

Paul

[Lazydocker]

Paul, I'd suggest updating your profile with your location... There are lots of competent people on here and if you're near enough then someone may be able to help you do it yourself!

The work isn't actually as complicated as it seems and, as long as you're methodical, can easily be done with the help and advice available from people on here.

Oh, and it does sound like the HG has failed to me Personally I'd stick a new belt and water pump on while doing the work

[PhilRich]

Hi again Paul, if you've decided it is definately HG failure, then DIY should cost around £150? plus a further £30ish to skim the head (if necessary).This doesn't include the cost of waterpump or cambelt kit though. Give Andy C a PM, he is extremely helpful & will give you a definitive cost & will supply parts at Trade prices, so a very big saving ( he is Parts Manager at a VX Dealership). You will also get as much help as you need to do the job yourself from the members on here. 

[mrgreen]

well if you want to look after the car yourself then you're on the right site you can learn everything you need to know here and when you get stuck just ask, the h/g on a 2.2 is relatively straight forward but as a newcomer maybe daughnting, in theory it should take around three to four hours but when you need to ask questions i would leave a day and do it bit by bit, have a go you will need tools!! and the parts to hand to replace but in all honesty of you have an ounce of mechanics in you you could do it!, it seems complicated starting but i suggest marking (by numbers) with tape where everything comes off (especially hoses) and take it a step at a time, you will get to apoint to where you think oh break what have a done!!! but that's part of the process! have a go you will be more confident for it afterwards read up on the haynes manual and understand how your basic motor works and then i think you'll find it not so bad ask the questions and everyone starts from nowhere, i learn everyday just by following this site!!

[JamesV6CDX]

I doubt it would make it to Gloucestershire, else I'd sort it for you, if you can do without for a couple of weekends?

Realistically, I can't give any reliable assistance with a HG job until early May 

[Balthazar]

Firstly, thank you for all your replies.

I am going for it and I am going to do it myself. I have a good price from Andy C for all the parts. And I have the next few weekends spare, so hopefully it will all work out well.

Worryingly I already have a couple of questions.

1. Can anyone recommend a toolkit that would do the job ? Is there any specialist tools required ?

2. The Haynes manuals seem to only cover the Omega upto 1999. Mine is the 2.2 Petrol 2003 is it the same manual that I need ?

Regards,

Paul

[sotmh]

Great to see you're DIYing.  I recently bought the Halfords advanced pro range tool kit on special offer £99.99 (£100 off RRP). Currently on. It would definitely be sufficient as advised on this site you can reserve online and pick up from store.

I would like to invite you join the following cash back site, for additional discount if possible.http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/member31818672325


I've also started to do my mig (2.0 R GLS).  Don't think they are too dissimilar.  As a heads up), Haynes instructed to ensure tensioner arm correctly positioned prior to release to enable auxilary belt removal. After a considerable time of checking, re-checking with ,mark 1 eyeball and rereading manual I found mine did not possess this and all was needed was to release alternator to remove said belt.

Also when you come to remove injector electrical connectors, metal retaining clips (5) are located running between wire assembly encasement and camshaft covers. These need to be released to enable connector removal.

I've never done this job before but am enjoying so far. IMHO I believe this is a good project to cut my teeth on (at least for me)
Take it slow, be methodical, take before pics and through each stage, label parts and where located from.


I am currently just having a little prob of removing injectors also inlet manifold support bracket, which I'm about to ask help on.

Keep motivated

[Abiton]

A couple of things that you'll need that aren't in the Halfords set.  A breaker bar, 1/2" drive by at least 16" long, and a 1/2" drive T55 torx male bit (I and a couple of others have had knuckle damage through breakage of the 3/8" drive version which you do get in the halfords set).

You'll really struggle to undo old and torque up new headbolts without a breaker bar.

Haynes manual (there's only that one) is definitely useful.

Oh, and the cam sprocket locking wedge is definitely worth the small cost.

[Kevin Wood]

A couple of things that you'll need that aren't in the Halfords set.  A breaker bar, 1/2" drive by at least 16" long, and a 1/2" drive T55 torx male bit (I and a couple of others have had knuckle damage through breakage of the 3/8" drive version which you do get in the halfords set).

You'll really struggle to undo old and torque up new headbolts without a breaker bar.

Haynes manual (there's only that one) is definitely useful.

Oh, and the cam sprocket locking wedge is definitely worth the small cost.

Add to that a torque wrench or two and perhaps an angular gauge for head bolt tightening.

Kevin