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[Bionic]

When I have to have someone else take off the wheels and replace them I always take the locknut off myself and then replace it when they are done. That way I know it has been done correctly and not with an air powered tool! The nuts should be torqued anyway!
Its tho only way you can be certain you will be able to get it off again if you need to.....

[Andy H]

That shall be my back up! Dreading the drilling, but at least I am not in a rush!

And now you have said it, it makes sense that the remains would cone out easily as it is the shoulder of the nut which is holding the nut fast!

Out of interest, what drill bits would you recommend?

The best HSS (high speed steel) you can lay your hands on (Dormer, Britool, Snap On)

Don't rush, keep the drill bit cool by dipping it in water every few seconds. Above all don't snap a drill bit in the hole

[richdrury]

cant remember the makers name but i do remember that they were £14 each but then the firm paid for them 

Ok i found one of the drill bits, no makers name on the shaft, but they are HSS-TG bits, best bits i've ever used, hope that helps.

[Andy B]

....
Don't rush, keep the drill bit cool by dipping it in water every few seconds. Above all don't snap a drill bit in the hole

If water is all you have maybe, but something more like Rocol would be better.

[HockeyDave55]

When I have to have someone else take off the wheels and replace them I always take the locknut off myself and then replace it when they are done. That way I know it has been done correctly and not with an air powered tool! The nuts should be torqued anyway!
Its tho only way you can be certain you will be able to get it off again if you need to.....

I work at a vehicle development centre and we have a process to safety check our cars, this includes checking the torque on the wheel fixings.
We have found bolts/studs broken or at best yielded because of being over tightened, and using a gun to even take a wheel off is now a disciplinary!

Use a socket, one that just taps on isn't small enough, you will have to beat the c**p out of it and you might go through 4 sockets! 

Good luck!

[philsteward]

Thanks a lot chaps.

Shall try it out tonight if I get the chance, trying the T-Bar method first, and if that fails will start the drilling.

Bought some "drill through anything" drill bits at a show recently, with a life time guarantee, so shall take the opportunity to try them out!

Cheers

[MutantCav]

And dont forget...if the 16mm socket isnt quite tight enough and the 15mm is just too small...there is the old money socket...I know 19mm is about a 3/4 and 13mm is about 1/2 so 15/16mm will be somewhere in between Just saying because they are not quite the same sizes and may be that little bit more snug

[philsteward]

UPDATE! I still have one locking wheel nut on my car 

I tried what Tango suggested, and just managed to mangle my 16mm, and two 15mm sockets.

Now on with richdury2001's suggestion.  Have drilled the centre of the nut out to 12mm, which I have measured is slightly larger than the threaded section, but still small enough to allow a bit of play through the alloy wheel hole.

Still stuck fast, so can only assume I need to go a bit deeper.  Measuring roughly how far I have drilled in, I might be about 4mm short of the end of the shank/shoulder, so shall carry on tomorrow.

Hope it does work, as totally mangled now and cannot get any sockets on it!

[Andy H]

UPDATE! I still have one locking wheel nut on my car 

I tried what Tango suggested, and just managed to mangle my 16mm, and two 15mm sockets.

Now on with richdury2001's suggestion.  Have drilled the centre of the nut out to 12mm, which I have measured is slightly larger than the threaded section, but still small enough to allow a bit of play through the alloy wheel hole.

Still stuck fast, so can only assume I need to go a bit deeper.  Measuring roughly how far I have drilled in, I might be about 4mm short of the end of the shank/shoulder, so shall carry on tomorrow.

Hope it does work, as totally mangled now and cannot get any sockets on it!

Only 4mm from success now 

[richdrury]

UPDATE! I still have one locking wheel nut on my car 

I tried what Tango suggested, and just managed to mangle my 16mm, and two 15mm sockets.

Now on with richdury2001's suggestion.  Have drilled the centre of the nut out to 12mm, which I have measured is slightly larger than the threaded section, but still small enough to allow a bit of play through the alloy wheel hole.

Still stuck fast, so can only assume I need to go a bit deeper.  Measuring roughly how far I have drilled in, I might be about 4mm short of the end of the shank/shoulder, so shall carry on tomorrow.

Hope it does work, as totally mangled now and cannot get any sockets on it!

Only 4mm from success now 

drill 3mm more remove rest of studs from wheel and use a hefty bar to pry the wheel off, this will prevent damaging the threads in the hub

[philsteward]

Is there not a risk of shattering the alloy by using the wheel to pry it off? That is what is concerning me now.

[Andy B]

Is there not a risk of shattering the alloy by using the wheel to pry it off? That is what is concerning me now.

I can kind of see the logic in Rich's method, but I'd carry on as you were doing. I certainly wouldn't be using a hefty bar on the back of an ally wheel. 

[richdrury]

trust me im a tyre fitter, i have done this several times and it has worked every time, the wheel will not be damaged (there stronger then you think) and the remaining undrilled stud will pop of, the thread can then be removed from the hub.

when i say a hefty bar i meant a long pry bar and apply steady pressure, dont just yank on it. sorry if i sounded abit heavy handed.

[Andy B]

trust me im a tyre fitter, i have done this several times and it has worked every time, the wheel will not be damaged (there stronger then you think) and the remaining undrilled stud will pop of, the thread can then be removed from the hub.

when i say a hefty bar i meant a long pry bar and apply steady pressure, dont just yank on it. sorry if i sounded abit heavy handed.

We'll trust you then 

[philsteward]

It's off, it's off!

Drilled another 3mm, then started to see a gap, shoved a small flat head screw driver in and enlarged it with a hammer.

Got the gap almost all the way round, then pulled on the wheel off.

Never been so happy to get a wheel off in my life!

Thanks for all your help, I shall post a pic or two Wyn I get on my PC.

Cheers!