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[kcl]

I have a coolant leak and its deffo the cooler plate. Leaks into the V, its not the stat. Is it worth/possible to just re-seal the cooler plate? So just pop off coolant bridge, off the oil pipes, cooler plate off, clean the surfaces, re-seal with grey goo, new dowtys and o-rings all over, anything else?

[Darth Loo-knee]

Yes just reseal the plate, I would leave the grey seal to go off over night if possible. 

[kcl]

Thanks, that was quick! Will fetch the dowtys and o-rings as well as the goo and start stripping the inlet... again...  Well, I think I will finally have a non-leaking engine.

[kcl]

Gonna bite the bullet with my oil cooler tonight and I have one issue: dealer had only two dowty washers for coolant bridge. Can the old ones be re-used, can they be replaced with something else? Or am I going to skip this until dealer gets parts from Sweden?

[kcl]

Yet one more: can not say for sure it's not the stat tjhat is once again leaking, red color all over the V. Can I use the grey goo to strengthen stat seal? Idea is to put additional sealing to stat by putting some grey goo to the outside of o-ring (I do not anymore trust the o-rings at all)

Could no tfind torque value for the plate? Big 30mm nuts to 30 Nm as well as coolant bridge but what will be the correct value for plate?

[kcl]

Ok, the torque for the plate is 20 Nm. One issue that was not mentioned in maintenance guide: you need to replace the o-ring between oil filter housing and block. Part number or size of the ring, anyone? Opel kat no 5650761, part no 9240161

Right... BOTH of the big threads stripped when opening. And guess what: new cooler not available from dealers here. Any ideas?

[Darth Loo-knee]

Ok, the torque for the plate is 20 Nm. One issue that was not mentioned in maintenance guide: you need to replace the o-ring between oil filter housing and block. Part number or size of the ring, anyone? Opel kat no 5650761, part no 9240161

Right... BOTH of the big threads stripped when opening. And guess what: new cooler not available from dealers here. Any ideas?

If you mean the threads on the oil cooler are stripped, you are going to have to change it mate. Get all your parts before you start 

Oil Cooler should come with two rubber O rings, Cover Plate plus two big nuts.
4 Alloy looking O rings for each side of the oil cooler pipes.
4 dowty washers for each side of the Coolant Bridge.
Grey Sealer.

From Memory 30nm for the Oil Cooler Big Nuts, and Coolant Bridge Banjo Bolts (hollow bolts), 20nm for the (8 bolts I think) holding done the Oil Cooler Plate

Suppose you could use the Grey Sealer around the Thermostat Housing but you will have too remove it from the Transfer Pipe. Personally I would change it whilst your at this stage, just saves you going down there again 

[kcl]

The stat is genuine and only a few months old.

Yes, the threads where the 30mm nuts go. Inside threads are ok.

Can not get a new cooler, several thousands on back order from factory  :-/

Some half of the threads are alive so I think I will have to give it a go as it is, using all the glues and goos I have 

Is LMFVauxhall any good as a supplier? They would send to Finland also with reasonable price...

Confused with part no:s: How-to says 93176626 but EPC gives 90412391 and does not find anything with the other code???

[Marks DTM Calib]

The code quoted in the guide is the TIS oil cooler kit, EPC only quotes the cooler.

The kit is availble to order direct from Vx but does not show on EPC yet it is cheaper and has more in it :-/

Its also possibly one of the only items I would trust LMF to supply as you cant get pattern cheap items for this part.

[kcl]

Ok, a little update: the plan is to re-thread the stripped to a smaller thread, can not see why it would not work, just one size smaller Msomething thread or 3/4" or anything. The threadless/destroyed pipe is 21mm in diameter and applicable thread tool is under search. If this does no twork I will order a new cooler from your country as it seems to be the last resort. On german ebay they are charging +250 eur for coolers, dealer price +300 eur and it seems that I can get one from England for 135 pounds including P&P, roughly 170 eur or something 

Meanwhile have changed autobox fluid, added some oil to diff, cleaned the engine bay etc etc...

[kcl]

Ok, managed to use the old one... Enough of thread for a new nut, which I made out of a hydraulic component...  :-? Well, it torqued up ok so I can not imagine why it would not keep, it's under no load and some glue was put on the thread.

All is well, exept eml is on and code 0120 present. Anyone have any ideas where this might come from? TPS is intact as well is the pedal. Connector is seurely in its place.

[Darth Loo-knee]

Sounds like you could have left a connection off..

[kcl]

Sounds like you could have left a connection off..

As said the connector is fully home...