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[Sehen]

Newbie her on the forum, and have almost gone trough all the guidlines an general help. But i couldn't find any help about the EGR  on my 98mfl v6.
It has a rough idling, and i have changed the essensials, like the spark plugs, new magnacores, cranc sensor due to a intermittent 31 iirc ,oil and filters all arround.
The engine is a 4 year old GM repleasement with only 60K miles on it.
I have the diagnostic that we should not say the name of , and there is no fault codes  stored...
Is there anyone who have a guide or a how to about cleaning the EGR?

Yes, i have checked all the plumbing on the engine, new cambelt kit that's spot on and theres no leak in the ACC vacume

Hope for a fast response  8-)

[dbug]

Tried cleaning ICV mate ? 

[Sehen]

By ICV you mean the idler control? Yes, both the one in the car, and the spare From Norway, and don t understand all the abbreviation, but correct me if I'm wrong 

[dbug]

Sorry mate ICV = Idle Control Valve 

[Sehen]

Nice
But, I was thinking (somethimes I do, actually!!!) the engine has standing in the garage for a year, could the EGR become corroded on the mating surfaces, so it wont be all the way shut when idling, and therfore slipping by some air?

[dbug]

Try blaking the EGR valve off with metal plate cut to fit

[Sehen]

Thank's I will try it later this afternoon, after i have done the  alu headligt adjuster upgrade on my HID lights. New HID headlight costs appr. 400£ in Norway.....each... So the alu adjuster is the most funniest/chepest uppgrade on my car....ever 

[Sehen]

Still struggeling with the rough ideling. I have cleaned the EGR, checked it's function, and even tryed to blank it, but nothing helped.
I have cleaned up the ICV on the car and my spare, tryed both of them, and still the same.
I did suspect the Coil pack, and almost ordered one today(350£ in Norway)
But the car is not missfiering on load, just rough idling and bad drivability on low RPM's
 But today i did check the fault codes, and there was one code, engine colant high(not present)
I know for a fact that the engine has not overheated...
Is the coolant temp. sensor or the plug just kidding with me?
 I will order the retrofit kit with gold plated connectors, and keep you posted.
By the way, are The Vauxhall World Parts a recomended site for chep parts??
The prices here are wery low compared to the Norwegians, and they ship worldwide.

[tigers_gonads]

Its always a good idea to oil the Idle Control Valve after it has been cleaned 

[cem_devecioglu]

coolant temperature sensors are critical and fairly cheap ..

also if you want to check your engines condition,
try a compression test,

if its ok,

check the exhaust system for leaks (they generally leak from ex.manifold gaskets)

and also check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around engine...

must add, rough idles can be caused from many components which I spent a fortune on it in the past

and also hot and cold idle problems differ..

[Sehen]

coolant temperature sensors are critical and fairly cheap ..

also if you want to check your engines condition,
try a compression test,

if its ok,

check the exhaust system for leaks (they generally leak from ex.manifold gaskets)

and also check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around engine...

must add, rough idles can be caused from many components which I spent a fortune on it in the past

and also hot and cold idle problems differ..

Engine ok, 4 year old GM transplant with 60K miles on it.
No exhaust leaks.
Practicaly cleaned the engine with high flameable gasses and liquids.
And, it's a hot idle problem

[cem_devecioglu]

coolant temperature sensors are critical and fairly cheap ..

also if you want to check your engines condition,
try a compression test,

if its ok,

check the exhaust system for leaks (they generally leak from ex.manifold gaskets)

and also check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around engine...

must add, rough idles can be caused from many components which I spent a fortune on it in the past

and also hot and cold idle problems differ..

Engine ok, 4 year old GM transplant with 60K miles on it.
No exhaust leaks.
Practicaly cleaned the engine with high flameable gasses and liquids.
And, it's a hot idle problem

is it surging up and down ?

does the engine shake randomly ?

ps: 4 yr old and 60k doesnt guarantee anything imo :-/

[cem_devecioglu]

coolant temperature sensors are critical and fairly cheap ..

also if you want to check your engines condition,
try a compression test,

if its ok,

check the exhaust system for leaks (they generally leak from ex.manifold gaskets)

and also check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around engine...

must add, rough idles can be caused from many components which I spent a fortune on it in the past

and also hot and cold idle problems differ..

Engine ok, 4 year old GM transplant with 60K miles on it.
No exhaust leaks.
Practicaly cleaned the engine with high flameable gasses and liquids.And, it's a hot idle problem

with what and how..if you applied carbon clean methods or similiar on a 60k engine , partially cleaned valves will mess up the idle badly..

[Sehen]

coolant temperature sensors are critical and fairly cheap ..

also if you want to check your engines condition,
try a compression test,

if its ok,

check the exhaust system for leaks (they generally leak from ex.manifold gaskets)

and also check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around engine...

must add, rough idles can be caused from many components which I spent a fortune on it in the past

and also hot and cold idle problems differ..

Engine ok, 4 year old GM transplant with 60K miles on it.
No exhaust leaks.
Practicaly cleaned the engine with high flameable gasses and liquids.
And, it's a hot idle problem

is it surging up and down ?

does the engine shake randomly ?

ps: 4 yr old and 60k doesnt guarantee anything imo :-/

It shake randomly, then it will be okay for some seconds, and then shake again. The engine whas tested for vacum leaks with some carburettor cleaner and "starting gas" ?? on the outside only, without any luck.
When this heppens, the live data from the O2 sensors go from lean to rich, but does not create a fault code.
I have changed the crank sensor after a intermittent 31 code, and the starting problem dissapeard, like the 31.
The engine is checked, and the timingbelt and compression is ok, so is the color of the spark plugs, they all look the same.
There is no back compression in the system, and the crankhouseventilation works fine.
Cant find enything wrong with the live data from my diagnostic either, but I'm going to test my sons 2,5V6 with the diagnostics to compare, just have to wait until he comes back from school for a weekend
 So I'm still confused, because the car runs good, and slightly pulls ahead other 2,5V6's.
 So, my question is: ?? :-/

[cem_devecioglu]

coolant temperature sensors are critical and fairly cheap ..

also if you want to check your engines condition,
try a compression test,

if its ok,

check the exhaust system for leaks (they generally leak from ex.manifold gaskets)

and also check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around engine...

must add, rough idles can be caused from many components which I spent a fortune on it in the past

and also hot and cold idle problems differ..

Engine ok, 4 year old GM transplant with 60K miles on it.
No exhaust leaks.
Practicaly cleaned the engine with high flameable gasses and liquids.
And, it's a hot idle problem

is it surging up and down ?

does the engine shake randomly ?

ps: 4 yr old and 60k doesnt guarantee anything imo :-/

It shake randomly, then it will be okay for some seconds, and then shake again. The engine whas tested for vacum leaks with some carburettor cleaner and "starting gas" ?? on the outside only, without any luck.
When this heppens, the live data from the O2 sensors go from lean to rich, but does not create a fault code.
I have changed the crank sensor after a intermittent 31 code, and the starting problem dissapeard, like the 31.
The engine is checked, and the timingbelt and compression is ok, so is the color of the spark plugs, they all look the same.
There is no back compression in the system, and the crankhouseventilation works fine.
Cant find enything wrong with the live data from my diagnostic either, but I'm going to test my sons 2,5V6 with the diagnostics to compare, just have to wait until he comes back from school for a weekend
 So I'm still confused, because the car runs good, and slightly pulls ahead other 2,5V6's.
 So, my question is: ?? :-/

check the alternator pulley..

although I still think you may have problem with a cylinder or 2 (may be ignition related)  you can swap some sensors with the other miggy..