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Author Topic: Alternator (2.5td)  (Read 3783 times)

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Turk

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #15 on: 01 February 2009, 22:43:57 »

Looks like I'll be changing mine in the next week or so.
Not been able to test the alternator output but as the guages were no longer cutting out at above 2k rpm, I took my usual sunday run up to my sisters. On an up hill section after leaving the m/way, as I accellerated up the hill, the power cut out and appeared to go into "limp mode".  Didn't notice what the rpm was when it happened but it didn't feel higher than about 4k rpm. Pulled in at a lay-by and all seemed ok so I continued on my journey.
No battery light showing so just in case the battery was getting too much charge I turned on rear de-mister and fog lights (felt like a boy racer ;D).

Any idea what would be a fair price for a re-con'd alternator ?
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TheBoy

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #16 on: 02 February 2009, 08:43:37 »

Quote
Looks like I'll be changing mine in the next week or so.
Not been able to test the alternator output but as the guages were no longer cutting out at above 2k rpm, I took my usual sunday run up to my sisters. On an up hill section after leaving the m/way, as I accellerated up the hill, the power cut out and appeared to go into "limp mode".  Didn't notice what the rpm was when it happened but it didn't feel higher than about 4k rpm. Pulled in at a lay-by and all seemed ok so I continued on my journey.
No battery light showing so just in case the battery was getting too much charge I turned on rear de-mister and fog lights (felt like a boy racer ;D).

Any idea what would be a fair price for a re-con'd alternator ?
Before writing it off, get a meter on it ;)
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #17 on: 02 February 2009, 09:39:54 »

i ended up changeing mine last year mate
best way i found was to remove the battery and bend the corner or the tray up  ::)
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #18 on: 02 February 2009, 09:50:44 »

woops wrong button  :)
i had to drop the power steering pump out of the way to get to the last bolt
think i disconected the 2 electrical plugs and removed the relay box aswell
then i tied a piece of string to it and got somebody to take the weight while i squeezed it round the pipework   :y
regulator change deffo needed by the sound of it
i'd change the slip rings and brushes at the same time then it should be as good as new  :y
BIG hammer needed to bang the tray back though  :)
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Turk

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #19 on: 02 February 2009, 20:40:37 »

Yeah, looked at battery tray bending but it still looks a bit tight.  Pretty sure that by removing the PAS pipe behind the alternator it will slide out towardes the rear.

Called Shorts Auto Electrical in Swansea earlier today and arranged to go down on wednesday. They can bench test the alternator I removed from the Elite and check the other on the car.
  
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #20 on: 03 February 2009, 09:34:11 »

yeah it a bit of a bitch
have fun  ;D
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Turk

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #21 on: 04 February 2009, 15:14:11 »

Alternator of Elite bench tested and apparently it's dead. Not a glimmer of light on the tester.
It was ok when the car was in use but it has been idle for 18 months.

Checked the output on the car mounted alternator now fitted with the rectifier from my Elite that used to shut down the dash clocks etc and read 19v at 2,500rpm and it's now fine up until over 4,000rpm then the guages shut down and the reading shoots up to 19v.

I've ordered a new alternator thru my mates garage. £120 (+VAT)

Anything else I should check before replacing with the new jobbie ?

Don't want to do the swap and find I still have the overcharging issue due to some component being at fault all along.
That would be typical of my luck !
« Last Edit: 04 February 2009, 17:17:29 by Turk »
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largecol

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #22 on: 04 February 2009, 20:15:01 »

Just a bit of further input if its any use, when changing my alt, once i disconnected the hoses at the front i made a couple of slots in the battery tray with junior hacksaw and carefully bent it upwards - gave me an extra 3-4 inches clearance and proved enough to lift and turn the alt to lift it out. Gotta say it went back in alot easier than it came out!! with the slots made in the tray it bent back into place without needing a sledgehammer!!
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Turk

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #23 on: 08 February 2009, 21:53:21 »

Quote
Just a bit of further input if its any use, when changing my alt, once i disconnected the hoses at the front i made a couple of slots in the battery tray with junior hacksaw and carefully bent it upwards - gave me an extra 3-4 inches clearance and proved enough to lift and turn the alt to lift it out. Gotta say it went back in alot easier than it came out!! with the slots made in the tray it bent back into place without needing a sledgehammer!!


Bent the lip of the tray up easily with an adjustable pipe wrench...and a medium sized "tapping spanner" to get it back into shape after.
That and removing the alternators rear top mount bracket (2 x 10mm bolts) gave just enough room to wiggle and jiggle it out.
Didn't reed to remove the PAS pipes either.
Removing the bottom idler wheel (13mm off set spanner or small ratchet) gave a few more inches of room when re-fitting.
Thanks for the advice and input folks.  :y
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JueV6

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #24 on: 10 February 2009, 09:18:31 »

I have a 2.5 TD alternator sitting here doing nothing make me and sensible offer and it's yours.
Damn sight cheaper than £120
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Turk

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Re: Alternator (2.5td)
« Reply #25 on: 10 February 2009, 22:53:13 »

JueV6,
Thanks for the offer but I did the job last Saturday evening. Worked out at £80 with a 2 yr warranty.
The £120 was the price without an exchange unit.

Thanks all the same.  :y
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