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[dreads]

could any one tell me were the nearest switched live is in or near the boot, an what colour the wire is.

[sparkyw666.]

if your going to put in a sub and a amp i would take the power straight from the battery tbh

[Broomies Mate]

I can only hope assume you are looking for a 'remote' wire to power your amp when the ignition is live.

Seeing as you have to run a LIVE cable from the battery along the length of the vehicle, I'd suggest you run the remote properly from the back of the head unit and not cut corners.

[TheBoy]

I'm with Broomies Mate - surely you are not considering powering amp/sub from a nearby 12v .  It needs to be run direct to battery, with an inline fuse as near to battery as possible!

[Dave DND]

I'm with Broomies Mate - surely you are not considering powering amp/sub from a nearby 12v .  It needs to be run direct to battery, with an inline fuse as near to battery as possible!

Correct

DO NOT USE A SWITCHED LIVE FOR AN AMP   

The amp remote must only be powered from the remote feed from the head unit 

[rustym95]

might be a 20w amp.

[Dave DND]

might be a 20w amp.

Doesn`t matter on the size of the amp - the remote turn on signal is designed to switch at a slightly different time to the head unit and prevent any unwanted turn on audio "thump" that can destroy speakers instantly.

[rustym95]

was joking.

[Andy H]

Doesn't the antennae feed from the back of the head unit go to the aerial amplifier in the rear parcel shelf?

[rustym95]

all wire's are 5-10 wat in most of the back with some 3wat wires as well, so would start to melt.

[KillerWatt]

might be a 20w amp.

Power output is immaterial, it's what the PSU inside the amp wants that matters (and they normally want a fair whack).

As others have already stated, nice bit of 4 guage with inline fuse straight off the battery (inline fuse as close to battery as possible), and the amp is "switched on" by the remote lead from the head unit.

[Dave DND]

might be a 20w amp.

Power output is immaterial, it's what the PSU inside the amp wants that matters (and they normally want a fair whack).

As others have already stated, nice bit of 4 guage with inline fuse straight off the battery (inline fuse as close to battery as possible), and the amp is "switched on" by the remote lead from the head unit.

The man knoweth of what he preaches   

[KillerWatt]

might be a 20w amp.

Power output is immaterial, it's what the PSU inside the amp wants that matters (and they normally want a fair whack).

As others have already stated, nice bit of 4 guage with inline fuse straight off the battery (inline fuse as close to battery as possible), and the amp is "switched on" by the remote lead from the head unit.

The man knoweth of what he preaches   

I'd hope so Dave, I've spent £1000's over the years on exams (some pointless) that have been introduced by the government to prove I still know what I learnt 30 years ago


@ the OP

I did forgot to add that the ground lead should also be in the same guage as the main power line from the battery (although common sense should dictate that anyway), and also keep the wires as short as poss to minimise the volts drop.

[dreads]

thanks for the information ill try and install it professional!