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[johnnycboy]

Courtesy of VXL V6, fitted new amp board in and now all working.  Had a sneaky suspension it was not amp playing up.  Upon further investigation found the connector on main board where fasia connects to had broken away and the connection were free suspended.  managed to fit the front fascia correctly and bingo.  The only problem I am aware of now is the Stereo will not turn off on the ignition key.  So any any ideas would be much appreciated.  Also where I have put the new board in, will I have to have the system tech 2'd to the car.  Not had a chance to run the computer to see if its monitoring correctly.

Apart from that I'm a happy man

[Mr Hagon]

Long shot, but could it be that the stereo is set to be independant of the ignition.

If so I think the setting you're looking for is under the tuner function menu and called mode retainment.

[Dave DND]

I`d be checking the connector again

[johnnycboy]

Long shot, but could it be that the stereo is set to be independant of the ignition.

If so I think the setting you're looking for is under the tuner function menu and called mode retainment.

Your long shot paid off .  Thank you. All working correctly now.  Thats what I love about this site.  Kepp up the good work fellow oofer's

[Mr Hagon]

Long shot, but could it be that the stereo is set to be independant of the ignition.

If so I think the setting you're looking for is under the tuner function menu and called mode retainment.

Your long shot paid off .  Thank you. All working correctly now.  Thats what I love about this site.  Kepp up the good work fellow oofer's

Excellent, never thought that my long shot would pay off.  Glad to know that it helped a fellow OOFer  .

[Dave DND]

Long shot, but could it be that the stereo is set to be independant of the ignition.

If so I think the setting you're looking for is under the tuner function menu and called mode retainment.

Your long shot paid off .  Thank you. All working correctly now.  Thats what I love about this site.  Kepp up the good work fellow oofer's

Excellent, never thought that my long shot would pay off.  Glad to know that it helped a fellow OOFer  .

Well diagnosed !!
Updated my records, as I wasn`t aware of that one !!

 

[johnnycboy]

Just after a bit more info - there is a smoothing cap 47uF, near the amp chip. anybody know if this is polarity concious.  Does not show any negative sign so assuming not. The only reason I ask is mines broke and the spare I had the legs were so brittle they snapped off. any help appreciated.

[Dave DND]

Just after a bit more info - there is a smoothing cap 47uF, near the amp chip. anybody know if this is polarity concious.  Does not show any negative sign so assuming not. The only reason I ask is mines broke and the spare I had the legs were so brittle they snapped off. any help appreciated.

If there are no markings on the cap or the board, then probably not.

[johnnycboy]

Just after a bit more info - there is a smoothing cap 47uF, near the amp chip. anybody know if this is polarity concious.  Does not show any negative sign so assuming not. The only reason I ask is mines broke and the spare I had the legs were so brittle they snapped off. any help appreciated.

If there are no markings on the cap or the board, then probably not.

Believe it or not Dave - been doing some more investigation. looks like they are polarity concious. see here :- http://www.rapidonline.com/sku/Electronic-Components/Capacitors/Electrolytic/SMD-Standard-electrolytic-85-deg-C-capacitors/71098/11-2265.  Just don't know how to tell the neg side unless its the blue mark on top of the cap :-/
My mistake its a 470uF cap

[Dave DND]

Just after a bit more info - there is a smoothing cap 47uF, near the amp chip. anybody know if this is polarity concious.  Does not show any negative sign so assuming not. The only reason I ask is mines broke and the spare I had the legs were so brittle they snapped off. any help appreciated.

If there are no markings on the cap or the board, then probably not.

Believe it or not Dave - been doing some more investigation. looks like they are polarity concious. see here :- http://www.rapidonline.com/sku/Electronic-Components/Capacitors/Electrolytic/SMD-Standard-electrolytic-85-deg-C-capacitors/71098/11-2265.  Just don't know how to tell the neg side unless its the blue mark on top of the cap :-/
My mistake its a 470uF cap

If a capacitor has a marking, its usually common practice for the -ve side to be identified. The same goes for the circuit board.

If the board is marked then a polarity sensitive cap MUST go in place, but if the board is unmarked, then you can NOT assume that it is a non-polarised cap, you would need to refer to the service manual or another unit for reference.

[johnnycboy]

Just after a bit more info - there is a smoothing cap 47uF, near the amp chip. anybody know if this is polarity concious.  Does not show any negative sign so assuming not. The only reason I ask is mines broke and the spare I had the legs were so brittle they snapped off. any help appreciated.

If there are no markings on the cap or the board, then probably not.

Believe it or not Dave - been doing some more investigation. looks like they are polarity concious. see here :- http://www.rapidonline.com/sku/Electronic-Components/Capacitors/Electrolytic/SMD-Standard-electrolytic-85-deg-C-capacitors/71098/11-2265.  Just don't know how to tell the neg side unless its the blue mark on top of the cap :-/
My mistake its a 470uF cap

If a capacitor has a marking, its usually common practice for the -ve side to be identified. The same goes for the circuit board.

If the board is marked then a polarity sensitive cap MUST go in place, but if the board is unmarked, then you can NOT assume that it is a non-polarised cap, you would need to refer to the service manual or another unit for reference.

I agree with you, any ideas where I can get a service manual from :exclamation

As for common practice your talking about Omegas here, nothing ever common practice with them

[Dave DND]

I agree with you, any ideas where I can get a service manual from

 

Sorry, that request always makes me laugh

18 years of fixing the stuff, and I`ve never seen nor heard of a manual for that one !!

[johnnycboy]

I agree with you, any ideas where I can get a service manual from

 

Sorry, that request always makes me laugh

18 years of fixing the stuff, and I`ve never seen nor heard of a manual for that one !!

How did I know you was going to say that

So next question where can I get one of these caps or am I p@ssing in the wind

[Dave DND]

I agree with you, any ideas where I can get a service manual from

 

Sorry, that request always makes me laugh

18 years of fixing the stuff, and I`ve never seen nor heard of a manual for that one !!

How did I know you was going to say that

So next question where can I get one of these caps or am I p@ssing in the wind

Checking the direction of the wind before I answer

 

There must be someone on here with some scrap units that you could rob some bits off

 :-/

[Marks DTM Calib]

If its 47uF then it will be polarity sensitive as it will be electrolytic or a tant.

You can get some ceramics (which are not polarity sensitive) that size now but, there expensive and not liked as thier size and fragility exposs them to cracking during reflow processes so are considered a last resort and only used where mega low ESR is required e.g. sensitive DC-DC convertors.

If it was fitted the wrong way round, you would now know due to either a small charred mess (tant) or a load of paper type substance which would now be inside the unit!