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Author Topic: Power sounder removal  (Read 3895 times)

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Osprey

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Power sounder removal
« on: 09 September 2010, 23:52:01 »

I’ve got an attack of the dreaded four beeps, so I’ll be whipping out the power sounder this weekend. 

I know the standard method is ignition off and disconnect battery within fifteen seconds, and wear earplugs if the sounder goes off as it’s disconnected.  But I read somewhere else on t’interweb that if you do the final disconnection of the power sounder with the ignition on, it won’t trigger at all and you save yourself the hassle of resetting the clock and radio. 

Is this true?  Is there any harm in trying it, other than general issues with working on the car with battery connected?


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mathewst

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #1 on: 10 September 2010, 09:13:55 »

Not sure, but from an engineers point of view (and simple common sense) there has to be a way to remove the powersounder without setting it off.
Don't think GM guys were so stupid in making a car whose alarm will go off every time you need to service the powersounder.
If you try to remove it with the ignition on please post the result
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x1xv45

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #2 on: 10 September 2010, 16:58:54 »

Also if you disconnect the battery you have to reset windows later, and maybe sunroof (not sure about that, but mine acted strangely until I fiddled around with it and it went back to normal)
First time I disconnected the powersounder on a 2.0, I left the battery connected and used earplugs - after about 5 minutes it stopped squealing. Second time I did it, on a 2.2, I disconnected the battery and there wasn't any noise. Third time and I'll go back to earplugs, as resetting everything is a nuisance.

There are quite a few engineers here with common sense, that may tell us how to do it better, but I wouldn't go assuming that all the engineers at GM have it.
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Iain

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #3 on: 11 September 2010, 11:26:35 »

I unplugged mine with the engine RUNNING, it did not go off for 10 mins after it was unplugged and saved me from sticking it in a bucket of sand to shut it up til it died :y
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Osprey

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #4 on: 11 September 2010, 14:44:12 »

Four beeps again so I removed the power sounder an hour or so ago.  I started the engine shortly before the final disconection and it didn't even make a peep. 

I sawed around the case join as per the guide and disconnected the siren part within about 20 minutes, so no chance of noise now.  The batteries are Varta 3/V150H as shown in the guide, which seem to be easily available on the web and at Maplins, albeit with different tags.  But my subscription to Bodgers' Weekly is up to date so I will work something out.   ;)

I'm a little puzzled that the batteries look perfect with no sign of leakage, and they each gave 4.12V initially, which seemed quite healthy.  This has dropped to 4.10 over the past hour.

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Rockhampton

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #5 on: 11 September 2010, 18:38:35 »

Quote
Four beeps again so I removed the power sounder an hour or so ago.  I started the engine shortly before the final disconection and it didn't even make a peep. 

I sawed around the case join as per the guide and disconnected the siren part within about 20 minutes, so no chance of noise now.  The batteries are Varta 3/V150H as shown in the guide, which seem to be easily available on the web and at Maplins, albeit with different tags.  But my subscription to Bodgers' Weekly is up to date so I will work something out.   ;)

I'm a little puzzled that the batteries look perfect with no sign of leakage, and they each gave 4.12V initially, which seemed quite healthy.  This has dropped to 4.10 over the past hour.

My batteries looked okay physically, and they tested out on the meter okay, but once I changed them, the dreaded beeps stopped. No problem fitting the newer batteries with three instead of four pins, as you can get the holes to line up. Just remember to seal it all back up real good  :y
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yorkipud

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #6 on: 11 September 2010, 21:11:06 »

I took mine out a few months back after it kept going off and when I opened it up it was all set in resin far too much bother and I cant see a reason to re fit it, like its been said before less weight to carry round, driving an elite you need to save a few pounds of weight here and there. :y
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tidla

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #7 on: 11 September 2010, 21:46:25 »

Quote
Quote
Four beeps again so I removed the power sounder an hour or so ago.  I started the engine shortly before the final disconection and it didn't even make a peep. 

I sawed around the case join as per the guide and disconnected the siren part within about 20 minutes, so no chance of noise now.  The batteries are Varta 3/V150H as shown in the guide, which seem to be easily available on the web and at Maplins, albeit with different tags.  But my subscription to Bodgers' Weekly is up to date so I will work something out.   ;)

I'm a little puzzled that the batteries look perfect with no sign of leakage, and they each gave 4.12V initially, which seemed quite healthy.  This has dropped to 4.10 over the past hour.

My batteries looked okay physically, and they tested out on the meter okay, but once I changed them, the dreaded beeps stopped. No problem fitting the newer batteries with three instead of four pins, as you can get the holes to line up. Just remember to seal it all back up real good  :y

mine too..
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Osprey

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #8 on: 11 September 2010, 23:44:31 »

Quote
Quote
Four beeps again so I removed the power sounder an hour or so ago.  I started the engine shortly before the final disconection and it didn't even make a peep. 

I sawed around the case join as per the guide and disconnected the siren part within about 20 minutes, so no chance of noise now.  The batteries are Varta 3/V150H as shown in the guide, which seem to be easily available on the web and at Maplins, albeit with different tags.  But my subscription to Bodgers' Weekly is up to date so I will work something out.   ;)

I'm a little puzzled that the batteries look perfect with no sign of leakage, and they each gave 4.12V initially, which seemed quite healthy.  This has dropped to 4.10 over the past hour.

My batteries looked okay physically, and they tested out on the meter okay, but once I changed them, the dreaded beeps stopped. No problem fitting the newer batteries with three instead of four pins, as you can get the holes to line up. Just remember to seal it all back up real good  :y

So they do!  So no bodgery required after all.

Haven't sealed the casing yet - too much else going on tonight.  I'll have a go at that tomorrow. 

FWIW the old batteries, now disconnected, continue to drop voltage with no load attached, so I am happy that they did need to be replaced. 



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Elitenut

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #9 on: 12 September 2010, 19:01:33 »

I've found the correct batteries on the net for the Power Sounder if it helps.
http://www.cellpacksolutions.com/Search_Data_Sheet.asp?ID=3/V150H/4P
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drf_omega

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #10 on: 23 October 2012, 13:43:46 »

Just as a later update on this topic, I had the dreaded "four beeps" plus occasionally the alarm went off as I started the car.

I've followed all of the above instructions and most things have worked out quite well. I found it easier to remove the left hand wiper arm as well and then remove the right scuttle plate as it provided easier access to the sounder. Interestingly most of the plastic clips just under the windscreen used to secure the scuttle plate were missing?

I left the ignition turned on when I unplugged the sounder and that stopped it going off. I did wear some ear protectors just in case!

I used a hack saw to cut the sounder in half around the orginal case join line, was a bit worried about this but in fact it was quite easy and no problem at all.

The two replacement 3/V 150H/4P Varta batteries were souced from Cell Pack, excellent service as they arrived next day!

Fitting the batteries to the PCB was not that easy but with a bit of care I've done it now. I've used epoxy resin to fit the two halves of the sounder box back together. Once this has fully dried I'll be refitting everything back into the vehicle but, of course, have to remove both wiper arms and the scuttle plate again to do so.

Has anybody got any ideas on how I could test the alarm? I was thinking of secure locking the car and then opening the bonnet?
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Entwood

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Re: Power sounder removal
« Reply #11 on: 23 October 2012, 16:34:25 »

Just as a later update on this topic, I had the dreaded "four beeps" plus occasionally the alarm went off as I started the car.

I've followed all of the above instructions and most things have worked out quite well. I found it easier to remove the left hand wiper arm as well and then remove the right scuttle plate as it provided easier access to the sounder. Interestingly most of the plastic clips just under the windscreen used to secure the scuttle plate were missing?

I left the ignition turned on when I unplugged the sounder and that stopped it going off. I did wear some ear protectors just in case!

I used a hack saw to cut the sounder in half around the orginal case join line, was a bit worried about this but in fact it was quite easy and no problem at all.

The two replacement 3/V 150H/4P Varta batteries were souced from Cell Pack, excellent service as they arrived next day!

Fitting the batteries to the PCB was not that easy but with a bit of care I've done it now. I've used epoxy resin to fit the two halves of the sounder box back together. Once this has fully dried I'll be refitting everything back into the vehicle but, of course, have to remove both wiper arms and the scuttle plate again to do so.

Has anybody got any ideas on how I could test the alarm? I was thinking of secure locking the car and then opening the bonnet?

That will only test the normal alarm .. NOT the power sounder.

The way to test the power sounder is to simply disconnect the battery more than 15 seconds after switching off the ignition.

:)
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