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[kcl]

Fans do not kick in in any circumstanses. I have done the fan test as in http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1295795115 and the fans do work when grounding the pins on the test connector. So my question is how likely it is that I have a faulty temp sensor on the radiator? Are there more than one, found one in the top corner of rad near battery? How does its connector come off? Some metal clip I can see but have no idea how to unplug 

[Brikhead]

As far as I know there is another temperature sensor on the 'coolant bridge' that lives in between the two heads.

Also the connector you have found with the "metal clip", is it a thin metal bar that goes around the plastic connector? Usually you push the metal part in towards the plastic and then pull off the connector. Sometimes helps to push the connector together before you pull them apart...

[Andy B]

As far as I know there is another temperature sensor on the 'coolant bridge' that lives in between the two heads.

.....

there are two there.
One that talks to the engine's ECU & the other is for the dash temp gauge.

[kcl]

Yes, I know the two on the coolant bridge but what I need to know now is the one that triggers the fans. Is it the one on the radiator? And only one on the rad? Looking at a local motor factors site there seems to be three versions for the fan switch and they are described as: black rectangular, yellow rectangular, brown/green round. All I can see in my car is the connector (and only barely) and that it's dirty 

[Kevin Wood]

If you can't get the fans to run by grounding pins on the test connector it won't be the temperature switch(es), IMHO. (There are two on the radiator).

The temperature switch that controls most of the fan functionality has a 3 pin connector with 3 pins in a row. The other switch has 3 pins in a triangle formation.

This latter switch only affects the air conditioning (steps up the fans when it gets hot, disables air con if it gets really not).

Can you hear relays clicking when you ground the pins described in the test procedure?

I would check Fuse 29 in the passenger compartment fuse box and all of the fuses in the relay box next to the battery.

Kevin

[kcl]

As said I did the test and the fans do run when grounding the test socket pins, just as expected. Lower speed and full speed as stated in the test instructions. And, when using the A/C it's fan runs ok (when I turn on the A/C a fan starts). So the problem is that the cooling fans do not kick in automatically at all.

So there are TWO switches in the rad? Other one is near battery, below the upper water hose to rad. This is the one I suspect faulty. Where is this other one located? And only one kind of "upper" sensors available?

Edit: EPC gives two options: indent XA or WM. Is the local price ok, guys at the "marbel counter" quoted 50 euros for XA and 57 euros for ident WM?

[Kevin Wood]

OK. Sorry. I read that too fast.

It sounds probable that it is the radiator switch, then.

From memory, it's the one under the top radiator hose that does the control of the engine cooling so that is the one you need. I think the second one is on the same side, just much lower down.

You can test them by dropping them into a pan of boiling water with a multimeter connected to see if the contacts close.

and 50/57 euro sounds expensive.

I would source one from a car that's being broken at that price.

Kevin

[kcl]

Thanks. Seems that the monkey person behind the desk knows zit: the other code 18 46 325 (in Opel- world they use these numbers, kat. code or something in EPC) is for the lower switch.

Anyway, thanks for your replies and comments, have sent some inquiries to people who are braking Omegas in Finland, hoping to have the switch before weather gets any warmer  Where would I be without this forum? Bankrupt at least!