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[2woody]

Not much they will go bang! V6s aint about high RPM's thats what VTEC/VANOS is for

oddly enough, the V6 had VANOS right up until just before launch. The domes in the cam belt cover are still there.

[lozzzzzz]

Yeah, I binned the bag pipes, I can certainly see that would have added a lot of torque in the low to mid RPM, but its such a restriction upstream of the paddle, where the track is one pipe, the cross sectional area of the one pipe is about the same size as the throttle boddies (together) where the gas velocity is great. 

I've retained the plenum paddle and for now the ECU is switching it as per standard, but the mapping session will reveal whether the switching RPM has changed due to other changes. 

I agree I'm not expecting it to be much of an rpm change for the peak torque, time will tell, I cant wait to have it on the rollers

Thats a great idea, I'd love to take another one along as a comparison.  I'll be all over the forum, when the car gets to this point (unfortunatly a few months off yet).  So anyone in the area is welcome to bring an MV6 along for a power run for comparison perposes. 

Thats funny about the cam timing, I'd wondered if thats why there were bulges

I assume youve seen the photos of the engine work?  I put a link in my intro post.  I'll post some engine piccies here if folk want?

[tmx]

are you sure about this  its a BMW Patented design and in the days of the Omega BMW were very proud of VANOS

also i believe the reason why BMW use chain driven I6's is because of the VANOS system the older M20engine was belt driven then the M50tu come out with Single Vanos followed by the M52 then the M52tu with Bi-Vanos like the //M cars

anyway having owned a few BMWs once the Vanos unit blew up (Jammed) and it resulted in an extremely expensive trip at the stealers i shortly sold said car after that

[cem_devecioglu]

Not much they will go bang! V6s aint about high RPM's thats what VTEC/VANOS is for

VTEC and VANOS is about valve timing and have no relation with bottom end bang..

it depends on bottom end materials quality , clearences , oil quality and oil temp ..

in either case if oil is cooled properly they wont bang..

[cem_devecioglu]

also I must add the shops I visit frequently, repair lots of banged BMW's..

because the boyracers think that their cars will never fail

[tmx]

no i meant VVT engines rev high due to VVT systems the omega has none of this and V6s bar the NSX v6 dont rev high

[Kevin Wood]

I have seen an X30XE in a Westfield on jenvey throttle bodies and IIRC the owner said that was making 260+. I didn't pay much attention because it really depends how big a sprinkling of BS the rolling road was adding. Be very surprised to see that on standard cams. Well worth taking a standard "control" car along.

[tmx]

I have seen an X30XE in a Westfield on jenvey throttle bodies and IIRC the owner said that was making 260+. I didn't pay much attention because it really depends how big a sprinkling of BS the rolling road was adding. Be very surprised to see that on standard cams. Well worth taking a standard "control" car along.

my mates TT Supra has been on 4x rolling roads all mods considered it should be about 450-490bhp but one rolling road said it was 180bhp ranging to  690bhp! a TT supra with 690bhp dream on! a Single turbo yes!

[lozzzzzz]

Yout hear this all over the place, its a real shame that they feel the need to change the "correction" factor to keep owners happy, I'll certainly be asking for a non tanpered Wheel hp figure, then I can check what BS they added, but like you said another Omega would be the way to go, the car could almost be used as a calibration for losses, the only difference between the cars would be the axles then, and thats got to be pretty similar. 

[2woody]

whereabouts are you ?

[Kevin Wood]

Yout hear this all over the place, its a real shame that they feel the need to change the "correction" factor to keep owners happy, I'll certainly be asking for a non tanpered Wheel hp figure, then I can check what BS they added, but like you said another Omega would be the way to go, the car could almost be used as a calibration for losses, the only difference between the cars would be the axles then, and thats got to be pretty similar.

The problem is, a wheel figure will be wildly inaccurate too. Depends on the amount of friction between tyres and rollers, i.e. how hard it was strapped down, tyre pressures and type, etc. It's difficult to get a repeatable "at the wheels" figure.

What you need is for them to measure ambient temperature and pressure and enter it, then do a power run and properly record the losses during the coastdown and apply them to get an "at the crank" reading.

If I wanted to get an accurate figure I personally would go and see this man http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_r_road.html. I've seen his rolling road turn out consistent readings (i.e. same car untouched read within 5% with the two pull a year apart!).

Unfortunately he's in Watton so not the easiest place to get to. Used to be in Brixton which was OK if you had windows you could wind up (i.e, not a Westfield  ).

or.. If you really want the right number, put the engine in a dyno cell.

or.. Just tune it as best you can and drive it. It's only a number, after all.

Kevin

[2woody]

just been through the PH thread about the car.....

what's going on with the PAS pump ?

the electrical coolant pumps are for :-

pump 1 - allows coolant to be circulated around the heater after shut-off ( part of the "winter" options pack ), and also gives a better heater flow generally.

pump 2 - circulates some coolant around the system in order to prevent "after-boil", again a throwback from the high mass coolant temperature.

Hammerite products are not good for chassis, on two fronts. Firstly, they're too brittle and chip very easily (stones, etc.). Secondly, and more importantly, they're petrol-soluable, so with the firat sniff of gasoline, they simply fall off in big sheets.

and lastly, it might interest you to know that I used to be the chief engineer at Reliant Motors for a while. ( Beans industries and Avonex eras )

[Marks DTM Calib]

If I was looking to build a tuned 54deg V6 I would start with a 3.2 (steel crank), tear it down and get the bottom end balanced.

I might consider stronger rods as they are known to fail at higher powers.

I would certainly be checking the oil pump carefuly.

In addition, there are a few mods on some of the German sites which help the head cooling (which again is a known issue when upping the power).

The 3.2 has slightly better exhaust ports on the head but a custom set of headers would help a lot.

A bit of fettling of the head ports would not go a miss.

Its interesting as this is one thing that we have never really had a good go at on here (maybe we should!)

[feeutfo]

Maybe "we" need someone with a spare 3.2 to use a as test bead.

[Kevin Wood]

Maybe "we" need someone with a spare 3.2 to use a as test bead.

Now.. Who would that be? 

It would need a proper gearbox first, of course.