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[Fin]

I have detected an oil leak on one of the shocks so I think a strut replacement will be on the cards in the not too distant future.
I have searched through a number of posts on the forum, (I was particularly impressed with the 'Socket Method' of resetting the camber), however I have not come across step by step instructions for the strut replacement.
According to Haynes, you have to strip off the brake caliper, disc and hub in order to remove the strut.
Is it not possible simply to remove the two large bolts at the bottom of the strut and the nut at the top and drop it out? (Or is there a Vauxhall cunning trap to prevent simple maintenance lurking in there?)
Also, can anyone suggest a source for decent quality replacement struts and springs.

Thanks in anticipation of a solution.
Best wishes to all
Fin

[feeutfo]

Yes it's only attached via 3 fixings. Two bolts at the bottom of the shock that set camber first, having noted camber via socket method and spirit level

Then you need a 24 mill ring spanner, preferably cranked but not essential, for the top nut, and 11(?) mill spanner to hold the shock shaft still. But note the order and which way up all the components are fitted.

No need to remove anything else.

Kyb for stock and elite sl rear springs.
Mv6 vx only.
Vx for shocks with trade club card, see sig for card details.

For sports suspension, Bilstein b4 shocks. With either eibach, stienmetz, or Irmscher springs(rare)

[Nick W]

To get the stut off you undo the 2 bolts at the bottom that hold it to the hub carrier, and the anti-rollbar drop link. Disconnect/move the wiring and brakehose as appropriate. Then, firmly hold the strut, and undo the topnut under the bonnet. Be careful; the strut assembly is heavy!

Then you need some decent spring compressors to swap everything over to the new strut. This is the worst part of the job; the springs are big, oddly shaped and powerful. Do NOT scrimp on the tools!

At the very least, strip the strut top bearings, clean and regrease them. Doing this on mine got rid of the awful creak when parking.

Reassembly isn't difficult, just heavy.

Setting the camber accurately is going to be difficult, as the car needs to be on it's wheels. I used a digital angle finder against a shot length of angle iron cable tied to the wheel, and the jack handle in the spokes of the wheel to get them close to spec. Then you need to nip up the strut to hub carrier bolts whilst holding that setting. It isn't easy, needs another pair of hands and you'll still need an alignment done properly. I still do!

[Fin]

Thanks Chris and Nick
Everything I need to know within half an hour of posting.
This is a star forum.
I followed forum advised procedure last year replacing the rear springs and completed the job without difficulty. If I'd followed the Haynes suggested procedure I'd have been at it yet.
Thanks for taking the time and trouble to help.
Best wishes
Fin

[feeutfo]

Oh yeah, forgot the drop links.