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[Lazydocker]

Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference

Or use gm semi, which causes me no issues whatsoever on 180k 3.0, 60k 3.2, 110k K series, 41k Kawasaki and a clapped out lawnmower

Did you ever work out what caused the lubrication failure on the 'Golden Nugget'?

The organic interface between the seat and the "digital" accelerator probably

[TheBoy]

Even so.. drink a couple of pints less or have one course less at the curry house and you've covered the difference

Or use gm semi, which causes me no issues whatsoever on 180k 3.0, 60k 3.2, 110k K series, 41k Kawasaki and a clapped out lawnmower

Did you ever work out what caused the lubrication failure on the 'Golden Nugget'?

Oh, yes, thanks for reminding me, semi was great in 120k 2.5 Nugget, 140k Tractor, 90k 2.5 TB1

No reason to suspect lubrication failure on Goldie. None whatsoever.  And it let go when any oil would be thin.



But you use what works for you   At 50% more, I see no need to use the expensive stuff, and I know the bike - wet clutch=fussy - works well on GM semi, thats what I stick to for now

[albitz]

My bike also runs on GM 10/40 semi. According to MarkDTM it has no friction modifiers which is what knackers wet clutches.
Engine often revved to over 12000 rpm and always runs as sweet as a nut.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.

I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.

130k on clock.

Live with it?

Cold oil = viscous oil

Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).

VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.

I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. 

 I briefly ran my 2.6 with Mobil 1 Ow/40. No problems whatsoever with cold starting as this oil is piss thin. I know that some forum members think this oil is unsuitable for the V6 Omega.

[TheBoy]

On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.

I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.

130k on clock.

Live with it?

Cold oil = viscous oil

Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).

VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.

I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. 

 I briefly ran my 2.6 with Mobil 1 Ow/40. No problems whatsoever with cold starting as this oil is piss thin. I know that some forum members think this oil is unsuitable for the V6 Omega.

My personal opinion:

Unsuitable: No
OTT: Definately

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

On a cold morning, my 3.2 when first started, has a brief clatter of lifters. It clears very quickly, couple of seconds or so, and then is fine.

I have done a few oil changes over the last 6 months. Only does it when weather seems cold, and first started.

130k on clock.

Live with it?

Cold oil = viscous oil

Viscous oil puts a massive strain on the oil pump. If the oil has drained out of the system it takes much longer for the oil pump to prime and refill the oil-ways (and valve lifters).

VX sell 5w-30 fully synthetic oil at an extremely reasonable price on trade club. I switched to using it in my last car when I started worrying about the time it was taking to quieten after a winter cold start. That was at around 150,000 miles and it was still running sweetly when I got rid of it at 200,000.

I don't understand the OOF fixation on using 10w-40. It is like treacle when cold and only saves about £2 each oil change. 

 I briefly ran my 2.6 with Mobil 1 Ow/40. No problems whatsoever with cold starting as this oil is piss thin. I know that some forum members think this oil is unsuitable for the V6 Omega.

My personal opinion:

Unsuitable: No
OTT: Definately

You're probably correct Mr TB... . The Knuckle draggers at Kwik Fit did the change for me on that occasion. £44.95 with a new filter.  It is currently running like a swiss watch on GM 10w/40 semi.