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[Johna]

Hi All

I reported problems on my car last week with loss of power and was kindly pointed towards maf sensor. I tried cleaning it out with some proper cleaner in the hope that might help, and I think it may have, briefly, but the problems came back. I'm just about to order a new maf but thought I would check the codes again - originally I had a 0173 and 0170.

I just checked and have these codes now too:

P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0130 (There's 4 choices for this one!)
P0325 (There's 2 choices for this one - I thought I had counted 0324 but can't see a result for that?)
P0330
P1523 Electronic Throttle Control Malfunction (again i thought it was 1513 - maybe I mis-counted?)
P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected (another one)

Before I take out a second mortgage for a new maf, does this still sound like maf symptoms? 

Many thanks

John

[Johna]

Forgot to mention its a 2001 2.6CD

Thanks

John

[Johna]

Been doing some more research on MAF problems, should I try disconnecting the MAF and see if it makes any difference? If it's the MAF will it run the same or should it improve?

Many thanks

John

[Johna]

I tried driving the car with the MAF disconnected, and I think it drove better, certainly no worse 

Does anyone know if that points to the MAF or not?

Cheers

John

[Johna]

Okay, so tried driving the car for a decent run out. With the maf connected the car wouldn't start.

Disconnected MAF, car started straight up!

Out on the drive with the MAF disconnected, the car did drive better but like it's mssing on some cylinders (which the error codes pointed to originally). Would have the MAF disconnected make it feel like this?

Now I'm wondering if i have more problems than just a knackered MAF? The car has run perfectly before this problem just appeared last week.

[freecall666]

dose it come up with same codes with out the maf on?
or just the same? are all the plugs (wires) clean and dry?

[TheBoy]

The chances are you have knackered the MAF anyway by using a cleaner on it.

Whether or not that was original problem remains to be seen

[TheBoy]

I would be inclined to get some live data off it, and codes cleared and trims reset, and see what comes back. Currently, I think you are fighting a moving target.

[Johna]

Thanks for the replies!

I've just checked rechecked the codes and there are no new ones in there (the MAF is still disconnected).

Would the engine run lumpy if the car had been running normally and I had disconnected the MAF?

And how do I get the live data - do I need a to get a dealer to plug it in for this?

Thanks

John

[TheBoy]

Any nearby members with code readers? Even generic OBDII ones will work on 2.6...

[Johna]

Hi again

I have fitted a new maf sensor (many thanks RobG!!) but unfortunately it hasn't cured my symptoms. Think I'm going to have to book the car in to a diagnostics place.

I have driven it 35 miles to work this morning as replacing the maf did seem to improve it, but it's still definitely not on all 6 cylinders. Above 70mph doesnt seem too bad at all. Around 40 its a pig though. At slow speeds on a light throttle doesn't seem too bad either. I have re-checked my codes after the drive to work and there's nothing new there.

[Johna]

My wife reckons it feels the same as when the crank sensor went in our last mig. Is it possible for this to die (or start to fail) and not register?

[tunnie]

i'm wondering about the coil pack on the 2-4-6 bank 

[Johna]

Hi All!!

Just to let you all know, I have a working mig again!! 

Just want to give a huge THANK YOU to everyone who helped, especially to RobG & Twiglet  top guys who supplied the necessary parts.

I removed the coil pack this morning on 2-4-6 and discovered spark plug wells were brimmed with oil & water. It looks like its been like that for some time as the the rubbers were shot - part had even dropped off the rear rubber in to the back well and took a while to get out. Having cleaned them all out and checked the plugs, it all went back together with the new coil pack and bingo!! Working mig!

Can I also say that Markjay's how to on plug removal was spot on too!

There is one small problem that's developed  I have to crank it for a while before it starts. I'm wondering if I've disturbed a fuel pipe or something as it sounds like its turning over dry? I'm wondering if its because I took a couple of the plenum bolts out to screw into the coil pack for removal. Could this have done it?

Many thanks to everyone again!   

[johnnycboy]

Hi All!!

Just to let you all know, I have a working mig again!! 

Just want to give a huge THANK YOU to everyone who helped, especially to RobG & Twiglet  top guys who supplied the necessary parts.

I removed the coil pack this morning on 2-4-6 and discovered spark plug wells were brimmed with oil & water. It looks like its been like that for some time as the the rubbers were shot - part had even dropped off the rear rubber in to the back well and took a while to get out. Having cleaned them all out and checked the plugs, it all went back together with the new coil pack and bingo!! Working mig!

Can I also say that Markjay's how to on plug removal was spot on too!

There is one small problem that's developed  I have to crank it for a while before it starts. I'm wondering if I've disturbed a fuel pipe or something as it sounds like its turning over dry? I'm wondering if its because I took a couple of the plenum bolts out to screw into the coil pack for removal. Could this have done it?

Many thanks to everyone again!   

Have you sorted this proble as well, otherwise you are going to donald the new part.