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[Peti]

Haynes says :



Well,
 - with the fuel relay removed ,
and
 - DIS supply disconnected,

starter motor does not react at all.

Should the starter motor work in this situation ?

[Kevin Wood]

Yes, it should. Is the car in Park or Neutral (auto)?

[Peti]

Auto gearbox, "PARK" position.
Before overhaul , the starter motor worked properly.
Battery brand new.

[Kevin Wood]

Have the straps from chassis to engine block and battery negative to engine block been reinstalled?

Fusible link FV4 (80A) in the PDS box on top of the battery OK?

Sometimes the crimping of the thick cable from the starter into the positive battery terminal can get loose. Is that OK?

Are you getting 12v at the smaller of the 2 connections into the starter, when the key is turned, and 12v at the larger terminal all the time?

[Peti]

Manana.....  

Anyway, no doubt, fuel pump relay is this :

[Kevin Wood]

Manana.....  

Anyway, no doubt, fuel pump relay is this :

That looks right, but neither relay will stop the engine cranking.

[Peti]

I think the computer is unable to decide WHICH GEAR is switched.

Selector lever switch was dismantled + cleaned + lubricated with vaseline

P : no light (i.e. the small LED is not up)
R : no light
N : no light
D : all lights are up
3 : all lights are up
2 : all lights are up
1 : all lights are up

HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP !!!

[Peti]

...though I think it's the HARDWARE that prevents starter motor to work, not the SOFTWARE.

If lever is in position "P", the starter motor should work, regardless of the small control lights beside the lever.

Now, let's begin with those lights :
They are in direct connection with the selection lever switch down under.
So if they behave strangely, that switch is to blame, am I right ?
Of course it was adjusted ...but no lights...and then...all lights....I think this has nothing to do with normal adjustment.
So what next
 

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds to me like you might have too much vaseline on the contacts, or the switch is not aligned correctly.

Starter motor interlock is a separate pair of contacts in the same switch assembly. It makes contact in P and N only. It's the black and red pair of fairly thick wires into the switch.

Reversing light also has its' own pair of contacts. Does that work?

The switch also generates a 4 bit coded signal to indicate the selector position. This drives both the lights and the autobox ecu, so if the lights don't work, neither will the gearbox electronics.

[Peti]

I dismantled the switch (I found it easier to do this lying under the car than trying to disconnect its plug)
I cleaned its connections DRY, than used a microscopic amount of vaseline for lubrication(it MUST be lubricated).

This took me hours and does NOT solve the problem.

What else can I do ?

(Servicing the car is fun.....but I'm after an exhausting overhaul, and I'm really fed up with ...this all. Yesterday I thought the only thing to do is turning the ignition key.....I was wrong)

HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Peti]

Anyway, reverse lights are working

[RobG]

...though I think it's the HARDWARE that prevents starter motor to work, not the SOFTWARE.

If lever is in position "P", the starter motor should work, regardless of the small control lights beside the lever.
Now, let's begin with those lights :
They are in direct connection with the selection lever switch down under.
So if they behave strangely, that switch is to blame, am I right ?
Of course it was adjusted ...but no lights...and then...all lights....I think this has nothing to do with normal adjustment.
So what next

Not if the selector switch is wrongly adjusted

[Kevin Wood]

Not if the selector switch is wrongly adjusted

Agreed. We have two symptoms that point to some sort of a problem with the switch:

Gear selection lights not working
Starter inhibited.

You can disconnect the selector switch and bridge the black and red wires together in the socket, using a fairly stout bit of wire, as this connection will pull a lot of current. Then see if it will start. If it does, it further confirms a problem with the switch or its' alignment.

Note, however, that if there is a possibility that the gearbox linkage is incorrectly set you need to take precautions in case it's started in gear!

It's been a long time since I played with one of these switches but maybe it's a possibility that it can be reassembled incorrectly?

[Peti]

I had NO problem with this switch before, I just thought that if the car was to wait for the overhaul in the garage, it's a good opportunity to clean that, too.

If you ask me, adjustment looks PERFECT.

I followed these instructions :
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90673.0

Of course, I did not use a microscope when adjusting, but it really looks O.K.

Can a gap of 0,0000000000001 mm cause it ?
 

[Kevin Wood]

I had NO problem with this switch before, I just thought that if the car was to wait for the overhaul in the garage, it's a good opportunity to clean that, too.

If you ask me, adjustment looks PERFECT.

I followed these instructions :
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90673.0

Of course, I did not use a microscope when adjusting, but it really looks O.K.

Can a gap of 0,0000000000001 mm cause it ?

I believe you, but the fact remains that it has been disturbed, and there are two faults that point to it as a possible cause.