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[Elliott19864]

I started my cambelt change yesterday, all was going well till tonight when I came to fit the new belt. It has no directional arrows, or timing marks, although one I had lying round did have these, so I have fitted this for now. Is the other belt ok to use? It just has a barcode on it.

Also, my car is a 1998, it has the bottom idler right near the crank, the video is different.

When I fitted the belt with all the timing marks and the tensioner all tensioned up the belt only has good tension on the left side, although the right side was slack, with the idler at roughly 12-1 position it has tension, no tension with it at the 3 o'clock position, but with the pulley being different is this normal?

[TheBoy]

unusually not to have arrows. No many have timing marks.

When the belt its fitted, it should be tight all round. If not, take it off and do it again.

[cem_devecioglu]

this is from another oofers post , cant remember now who was..
 
I. You should have the sparkplugs fitted when you fit the belt otherwise you will not be able to set the tension correctly!!!!
2. The top roller you show with the grease leaking out of it - needs changing thats the fail mode - very rare to see a belt on the V6 go - its always the rollers first!!!
3. The proper tool set (kent moore) has a timing gauge that goes onto the cam gears to set them correctly
4. If you set the rollers up correctly - you get the timing set first time
Top roller - set to 12 o clock to put belt on then set to just before 9 oclock
bottom roller - set to 3 o clock to put belt on set to around 12 0 clock - nip up just as the cam gear starts to move.
tensioner set to the top quadrant (as in pic) should come down to the centre mark once the crank is turned 2 revs - over tension will reduce the life of the rollers!!!

there are also belt location and rotation marks on the belt - if you fit an aftermarket belt i.e Gates they have marks for the C25XE and the later bridge engine (2.6 & 3.2) with a none excentric bottom roller there is also a double mark for the crankshaft.
 
 
I hope it helps
 
 
 
 

[Darth Loo-knee]

I started my cambelt change yesterday, all was going well till tonight when I came to fit the new belt. It has no directional arrows, or timing marks, although one I had lying round did have these, so I have fitted this for now. Is the other belt ok to use? It just has a barcode on it.

Also, my car is a 1998, it has the bottom idler right near the crank, the video is different.

When I fitted the belt with all the timing marks and the tensioner all tensioned up the belt only has good tension on the left side, although the right side was slack, with the idler at roughly 12-1 position it has tension, no tension with it at the 3 o'clock position, but with the pulley being different is this normal?

The earlier V6 engines had the bottom idler nearer the crankshaft.
Some belts don't have lines on them at all. Not fitted any without the arrows though but I fit the same brand each time.
The 12 o'clock position for the top idler and 3 o'clock for the lower idler is just a starting point remember.... you also need the slack to be at the tensioner side not the other way around.

[Darth Loo-knee]

this is from another oofers post , cant remember now who was..
 
I. You should have the sparkplugs fitted when you fit the belt otherwise you will not be able to set the tension correctly!!!!
2. The top roller you show with the grease leaking out of it - needs changing thats the fail mode - very rare to see a belt on the V6 go - its always the rollers first!!!
3. The proper tool set (kent moore) has a timing gauge that goes onto the cam gears to set them correctly
4. If you set the rollers up correctly - you get the timing set first time
Top roller - set to 12 o clock to put belt on then set to just before 9 oclock
bottom roller - set to 3 o clock to put belt on set to around 12 0 clock - nip up just as the cam gear starts to move.
tensioner set to the top quadrant (as in pic) should come down to the centre mark once the crank is turned 2 revs - over tension will reduce the life of the rollers!!!

there are also belt location and rotation marks on the belt - if you fit an aftermarket belt i.e Gates they have marks for the C25XE and the later bridge engine (2.6 & 3.2) with a none excentric bottom roller there is also a double mark for the crankshaft.
 
 
I hope it helps

Perhaps the link or the pictures too this Cem would be an extra help, as I have read it twice now myself 

[cem_devecioglu]

this is from another oofers post , cant remember now who was..
 
I. You should have the sparkplugs fitted when you fit the belt otherwise you will not be able to set the tension correctly!!!!
2. The top roller you show with the grease leaking out of it - needs changing thats the fail mode - very rare to see a belt on the V6 go - its always the rollers first!!!
3. The proper tool set (kent moore) has a timing gauge that goes onto the cam gears to set them correctly
4. If you set the rollers up correctly - you get the timing set first time
Top roller - set to 12 o clock to put belt on then set to just before 9 oclock
bottom roller - set to 3 o clock to put belt on set to around 12 0 clock - nip up just as the cam gear starts to move.
tensioner set to the top quadrant (as in pic) should come down to the centre mark once the crank is turned 2 revs - over tension will reduce the life of the rollers!!!

there are also belt location and rotation marks on the belt - if you fit an aftermarket belt i.e Gates they have marks for the C25XE and the later bridge engine (2.6 & 3.2) with a none excentric bottom roller there is also a double mark for the crankshaft.
 
 
I hope it helps

Perhaps the link or the pictures too this Cem would be an extra help, as I have read it twice now myself 

the positions before and after prep before fitting the belt was very useful.. I also have the oof dvd.. and it was really bang on the first time after 2 revs.. if I can find the original post or pictures I will send

[Darth Loo-knee]

Not for me  the guy who asked the question 

[cem_devecioglu]

I have the all vauxhall v6 engine course notes and haynes manual pdf.. and can share them .. 
 
if you ignore copyright rules..

[Darth Loo-knee]

I have the all vauxhall v6 engine course notes and haynes manual pdf.. and can share them .. 
 
if you ignore copyright rules..

we can't do that though I'm afraid...
The post you did earlier was that from the Maintence Area?

[cem_devecioglu]

I have the all vauxhall v6 engine course notes and haynes manual pdf.. and can share them .. 
 
if you ignore copyright rules..

we can't do that though I'm afraid...
The post you did earlier was that from the Maintence Area?

nope.. I caught it in general help section long time ago..he was a worker from the factory as I remember..

[Darth Loo-knee]

I have the all vauxhall v6 engine course notes and haynes manual pdf.. and can share them .. 
 
if you ignore copyright rules..

we can't do that though I'm afraid...
The post you did earlier was that from the Maintence Area?

nope.. I caught it in general help section long time ago..he was a worker from the factory as I remember..

Oh right 

[Elliott19864]

I am going to fit the other belt tomorrow as its brand new.

So if I set the bottom roller to 12 o'clock that should be ok?

[cem_devecioglu]

I am going to fit the other belt tomorrow as its brand new.

So if I set the bottom roller to 12 o'clock that should be ok?

after you put the belt thats ok.. original gm belt have no marks.. so  I used an aftermarket belt what have marks on it.. an its easier with them..
 
most critical part is the tensioner .. if not done properly belt will either be loose or over tensioned and you will  loose the roller soon.. 

[Darth Loo-knee]

Personally I wouldn't.

The Cam Locks need to be in place. The Crank Lock needs to be fastened to the water pump.
Put the top idler at the 12 o'clock position. The bottom idler to the 3 o'clock postion.
Put the cambelt around the Crank, then using the wedge down the left side of the crank to wedge the belt off the oil pump.
Go around anti clockwise, so you will go around the bottom idler first, then up to Cam 4, over Cam 3, under the top idler, over Cam 2, then around Cam 1 and over the tensioner. Note: the belt should just go over the tensioner if you have it right.

Take the slack out of the belt in between Cam 4 and the bottom idler with the Bottom idler then pinch up the centre bolt. Take the slack up out from the top idler by turning the top idler then pinch that centre bolt up.
Put your allen key into the tensioner, turn it to the mark then tighten the nut with a 13mm spanner.

Turn the car over by hand then adjust if it needs it

[cem_devecioglu]

Elliot , if you are not completely confident about the belt job,
 
its better someone helps you.. installing the belt and checking tension
 
requires lengthy info which some steps can be skipped or we think you already know
 
here as we cant write all details..