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[raywilb]

do i have to open bleed nipples in order to send caliper pistons back enough to fit new front brake pads . 

[Kevin Wood]

Yes. Not opening the bleed nipple causes the old fluid in the cylinder to be sent back into the system, whereas you really want to throw it away. Secondly, forcing fluid back up through the master cylinder can cause the seals in the master cylinder to invert.

[raywilb]

Yes. Not opening the bleed nipple causes the old fluid in the cylinder to be sent back into the system, whereas you really want to throw it away. Secondly, forcing fluid back up through the master cylinder can cause the seals in the master cylinder to invert.

cheers , thought i would have to. going to start shortly

[Entwood]

Don't open the bleed valve too far, if it is opened enough to "drip" then air is entering the system, if it is just "cracked" so a small amount of force is needed to push the pistons back - Plumbers Grips are great for this - and that is only when the fluid is ejected, then no air enters the system ...  makes bleeding afterwards a far less onerous affair ..

Just my views .. nowt else ..

[amba]

I put a easy bleed pipe with a 1 way valve on and then open the bleed nipple.Using an old brake pad as a guide squeeze the brake pad with an oil filter wrench to push the piston back which expells the old fluid from the calliper then close off the nipple

Swop over pads and refit,then open up the bleed nipple and give a couple of slow fully depressed pumps on the brake pedal to let more clean fluid through.Tighten up bleed nipple and top up fluid reservoir and jobs a good,n.

I have always had the engine running when I bleed the brakes as sure with the abs pump running it has less chance of any nasty problems with bleeding any air out.

[Kevin Wood]

I have always had the engine running when I bleed the brakes as sure with the abs pump running it has less chance of any nasty problems with bleeding any air out.

The only time the ABS pump runs is when the wheels lock up or when traction control is active. It can be activated by Tech 2 if the ABS block needs bleeding but this should never be necessary if you're careful.

I prefer not having the engine running so there is no brake servo and I can feel what's going on and how much force I am needing to use.

I just use a length of pipe over the nipple, draining into a jam jar when retracting the cylinder. Once finished I pressurise the system with an eezi-bleed and bleed a little fresh fluid through to make sure no air got in.

[Michael2.6]

No need to open the nipples use G cramp on the callipers and wind the piston back

[TheBoy]

No need to open the nipples use G cramp on the callipers and wind the piston back

For the reasons suggested earlier, the recommendation is to actually clamp the rubber hose, undo nipple, then force calipers in.

[Michael2.6]

Surely clamping brake hose would stop fluid going back

brake piston would stop where it is

[Kevin Wood]

Surely clamping brake hose would stop fluid going back

brake piston would stop where it is

That's why you open the bleed nipple.

[TheBoy]

Surely clamping brake hose would stop fluid going back

Thats the point - no point forcing the worse fluid (ie, caliper fluid) back into system, and no point risking inverting master seals.

brake piston would stop where it is

Not with bleed nipple open - it expels the nasty claiper fluid out