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Author Topic: wheel bolts  (Read 2232 times)

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chrisr

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wheel bolts
« on: 30 December 2011, 18:39:59 »

After a puncture yesterday I have found that some ham fisted tyre fitter has cross threaded one of my rear wheel bolts, I used a new bolt but the thread was immediately mashed up. Can anyone tell me the size of tap I need to clean up the thread in the hub please.
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rob in gib

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #1 on: 30 December 2011, 20:51:30 »

iirc  14mm but a very corse thread
believe that it has a special name any good engineer supplier should be able to sell you one

HTH

Rob
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Agemo

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #2 on: 30 December 2011, 21:09:38 »

M12 x 1.5 - same as 2.5TD sump plugs.  :y
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Osprey

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #3 on: 30 December 2011, 21:27:22 »

Agreed - definitely M12 x 1.5
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Andy B

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #4 on: 30 December 2011, 21:31:11 »

Sounds about right. I know it's not a regular tap size, I've a bucket full of the standard metric taps inc M12x1.75 but had to borrow a tap when my lad used my windy gun to replace his wheel bolts & cross threaded one ...................... I had told him the correct way, but lads know everything about everything when they're 19  ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ;)
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Agemo

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #5 on: 30 December 2011, 21:38:38 »

Where are you Chris? I could lend you one if you are nearby.
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GastronomicKleptomaniac

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #6 on: 30 December 2011, 21:39:08 »

...my lad used my windy gun to replace his wheel bolts & cross threaded one ...

 :o When I were an apprentice, many moons ago, using a windy gun on any bolt that hadn't been hand started would have got me hung, drawn and quartered.

 Sadly I only discovered the virtues of a torque wrench on wheel bolts after I, er, "became independent" as my CV might say... ;)
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Andy B

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #7 on: 30 December 2011, 21:43:24 »

...my lad used my windy gun to replace his wheel bolts & cross threaded one ...

 :o When I were an apprentice, many moons ago, using a windy gun on any bolt that hadn't been hand started would have got me hung, drawn and quartered.

 Sadly I only discovered the virtues of a torque wrench on wheel bolts after I, er, "became independent" as my CV might say... ;)

You can't put an old head on young shoulders .........................  ::) ::) ::)
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GastronomicKleptomaniac

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #8 on: 30 December 2011, 21:55:41 »

...my lad used my windy gun to replace his wheel bolts & cross threaded one ...

 :o When I were an apprentice, many moons ago, using a windy gun on any bolt that hadn't been hand started would have got me hung, drawn and quartered.

 Sadly I only discovered the virtues of a torque wrench on wheel bolts after I, er, "became independent" as my CV might say... ;)

You can't put an old head on young shoulders .........................  ::) ::) ::)

Though people are often deceived by my rapidly receding hairline  ;)
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Nick W

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #9 on: 31 December 2011, 12:45:00 »

Where are you Chris? I could lend you one if you are nearby.

I have one too, if I'm nearer to you.
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chrisr

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #10 on: 01 January 2012, 13:29:09 »

Thanks for the help and offers of a loan, I'm in Surbiton which means
postage may be more than the tap (don't know the price yet though!)
Happy New Year.
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Agemo

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #11 on: 01 January 2012, 14:42:09 »

There may be someone on here round the corner from you, you could have the job done tonight. I suppose ebay is the next best bet. Some cheap & nasty ones on there that I wouldn't normally recommend, but you only need it for one job.
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chrisr

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #12 on: 11 January 2012, 22:01:40 »

there seems to be various different types of 12 x 1.5 tap available, which one do I need please? :-\
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Nick W

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Re: wheel bolts
« Reply #13 on: 11 January 2012, 22:30:49 »

there seems to be various different types of 12 x 1.5 tap available, which one do I need please? :-\

Taps normally come as sets of 3.

They're meant to be used in order: the first has a long taper so it's easy to start, but doesn't cut a full thread; the second has a short taper and does cut a full thread, but not all the way to the botttom of the hole; the third finishes the thread to the bottom of a blind hole. When tapping a through hole the you don't normally need the third one.

That's the theory, in practice the second one is used in most cases, and is probably what you need.

The important thing to remember with any tap is that it needs to be square to the hole. That takes practice freehand, or the use of a tapping block.

M12x1.5 is a slightly odd size(normally M12 is 1.25 or 1.75 pitch), so you'll be buying it from an engineering supplier.
« Last Edit: 11 January 2012, 22:35:39 by Nick W »
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