Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Welcome to OOF

Pages: 1 2 [3]  All   Go Down

Author Topic: Rear spring change  (Read 2168 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Marks DTM Calib

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • West Bridgford
  • Posts: 33982
  • Git!
    • View Profile
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #30 on: 10 January 2012, 21:00:54 »

Four bolts v spring compressors ...  :-\

Its a bit more than that realy though.

First off you need spring compressors (not everybody has them).

For both methods you have to jack the car up.

One requires a few more bolts removing, they other is a bit fiddly with spring compressors.

The guide covers a job by taking an approach which requires minimal specialist tools and is simple so means more members can do it.  :y

Logged

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #31 on: 10 January 2012, 21:41:29 »

Four bolts v spring compressors ...  :-\

Its a bit more than that realy though.

First off you need spring compressors (not everybody has them).

For both methods you have to jack the car up.

One requires a few more bolts removing, they other is a bit fiddly with spring compressors.

The guide covers a job by taking an approach which requires minimal specialist tools and is simple so means more members can do it.  :y


by that I mean....

Once wheels are off, shocks are undone, drop links undone, your ready for spring compressors ?
At that point what else is there to do if dropping subframe? Un hook brake lines, and make sure abs sensor plugs are out the way. Then it's 4 bolts to undo although depending on spring length they may need levering out, versus winding spring compressors in with possibly limited access depending on which design sc's used... As you say.

Given the choice I'll take the four bolts etc, as your guide. I have sc's in the tool box and their a pita IMO.

But what ever works for the individual obviously. Your guide seems so simple and less fiddely IMO...   :y

 ???


Anyway, interesting discussion none the less.  :)

Logged

Marks DTM Calib

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • West Bridgford
  • Posts: 33982
  • Git!
    • View Profile
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #32 on: 10 January 2012, 21:46:31 »

Indeed, but why remove the wheels  :y
Logged

Ken T

  • Omega Baron
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Stockport
  • Posts: 2269
    • View Profile
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #33 on: 10 January 2012, 21:55:26 »

I have done both ways, on my original 2.0 Mig I used compressors, only problem was undoing the shocker bolt, I seem to remember the socket getting jammed in. I then did the drop the Diff method on my 2.2 and it worked very easily.

Ken
Logged
I used to be indecisive; now I'm not so sure...

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #34 on: 10 January 2012, 22:05:46 »

Indeed, but why remove the wheels  :y
To get the spring compressors on.  ;D  ;)
Logged

feeutfo

  • Guest
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #35 on: 10 January 2012, 22:33:49 »

....although to answer seriously, I have found the ground to be in the way of the wheels dropping fully if, the jack or stands are not man enough to lift the car high enough, or the drive is not flat.
Logged

tunnie

  • Get A Life!!
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Gender: Male
  • Surrey
  • Posts: 37547
    • Zafira Tourer & BMW 435i
    • View Profile
Re: Rear spring change
« Reply #36 on: 11 January 2012, 09:07:14 »

Indeed, but why remove the wheels  :y

I removed them for better access to the brake lines, guess its easier now as the locking pin things are free. But when they are caked in 3 years of road crap, I find its much easier to pop wheel off, fat screw driver on the lip of the clip big hammer and done.

Also with wheels off lets the diff lower more, but I guess thats because I don't get the car high enough  :-\
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3]  All   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.012 seconds with 18 queries.