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[Colin G]

Hi Guys

Took my miggy in for an MOT and it failed on NSR ball joint - excessive play.  Okay me thinks, time to change the wishbones and might as well do the drop links at the same time.

Got it all stripped down and new parts in - did the gentle roll back and forward as per chris's guide and then torqued everything up.  Took it for a test drive and there were a couple of metallic "clunks" and the steering seems to be about as responsive as a boat. obviously, I've screwed up somewhere and probably knackered the new wishbones in the process.

Fed up now, is there anybody local to Richmond/Kingston who facncies doing a proper job for me or can recommend somebody? I rarely admit defeat however, on this occassion I am.

Thanks for any responses.

Cheers

Col

[YZ250]

The only area I can see you making any error is the hub end, pinch bolt etc. If you have changed the complete wishbone then the front bush and rear bush are either in or out. If the bolts have gone through the bush I can't see anything that you could have done wrong there. Likewise with the Droplinks, straight swap over. Have to put it on ramps again to check what you have done. It will need geometry set-up anyway so you could get them to do it.

Good Luck 

Regards
Alan

[feeutfo]

Wb bolts tight enough?

[Colin G]

Hi Chris,

I followed your guide although I must admit I didn't torque up the rear bush bolts before letting it down and moving back and forward before raising the car, removing the wheels and then torqueing it up.  I've a feeling this might be where I went wrong.  I've noticed that one of the rear bushes has started to tear which suggests there was some movement in the wishbone.  I'm amazed at how unstable the steering is with it all torqued up though - I understand that I might need the alignment checking and adjusting.

I'm not confident in driving any distance so if anyone could recommend a reputable place to have the car relayed too, I'd be very grateful.

Cheers

Col

[Seth]

Hi Guys

Took my miggy in for an MOT and it failed on NSR ball joint - excessive play.  Okay me thinks, time to change the wishbones and might as well do the drop links at the same time.

Got it all stripped down and new parts in - did the gentle roll back and forward as per chris's guide and then torqued everything up.  Took it for a test drive and there were a couple of metallic "clunks" and the steering seems to be about as responsive as a boat. obviously, I've screwed up somewhere and probably knackered the new wishbones in the process.

Fed up now, is there anybody local to Richmond/Kingston who facncies doing a proper job for me or can recommend somebody? I rarely admit defeat however, on this occassion I am.

Thanks for any responses.

Cheers

Col

Probably best to get in touch with the MoT tester and find out which joint he was actually referring to.
Am wondering if it's the rear tie-rod, possibly. With a rebuilt front end, this would certainly produce some odd handling characteristics.

It's possible that your newly-fitted wishbones are now actually exacerbating the wear in the 'real' culprit.

[feeutfo]

Hi Chris,

I followed your guide although I must admit I didn't torque up the rear bush bolts before letting it down and moving back and forward before raising the car, removing the wheels and then torqueing it up.  I've a feeling this might be where I went wrong.

yes thats not quite right. The approach is to tighten the rear bush bolts correctly first while jacked. Leave the front bush bolts finger tight, drop the car on to the floor, drive back and forth to settle the suspension, then tighten the front bolts as best you can, car on the floor wheels loaded. Then re jack the car to torque correctly at 120nm plus angle tighten 30degrees, then a further 15 degrees. No need to remove the wheels again

  I've noticed that one of the rear bushes has started to tear which suggests there was some movement in the wishbone.

if the rear bush is torn already, something is seriously wrong with the wishbones. Leaving the bolt loose will have no effect on the bush. What wishbones are they???

   I'm amazed at how unstable the steering is with it all torqued up though - I understand that I might need the alignment checking and adjusting.

if the bolts where loose when driven it will be all over the place. Re alignment, dont do this until the wishbones are correcty fitted, with no torn bushes

I'm not confident in driving any distance so if anyone could recommend a reputable place to have the car relayed too, I'd be very grateful.

can come to you, but Richmond is a pig for traffic. Plus you'll need decent wishbones first

Cheers

Col

[feeutfo]

And by the way, can we clarify which ball joint we are talking about exactly.

Ta.

[Colin G]

Hi Seth,

I must learn to read what I write before I post - it's the Nearside Front Suspension Arm - Excessive play in a ball joint 

Well peed off, I did the cambelt and loads of other stuff last year and thought this would be straight forward as I'd done WB on an Escort.

Still, can't always be perfect (don't tell the misses though!!!!)

[feeutfo]

So what wishbones?

[Colin G]

sorry Chris - el cheapo of the bay - lesson learnt obviously  will go for your recommendation next time

[Colin G]

forgot to say, have sent you a PM Chris

[HockeyDave55]

Hello Omega buddies,

I've not been on here for a while and hope to get my car back on the road soon...
As far as after-market arms go, What is wrong with them?
I know we have reports of them failing very quickly but, is it just the bushes that go?
Would it be cost effective to get the cheap ones and fit VX bushes to them?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, just my head working overtime....

BTW, How much are VX arms?

[YZ250]

BTW, How much are VX arms?

You can kiss goodbye to around £500 for a pair of GM wishbones. 

[feeutfo]

Wb's consist or two bushes and a ball joint. The ball joints wear, but the primary concern is the quality of the bushes fitted. I will personally always maintain that Lemforder are the way to go to achieve the best balance of cost and reliability. Although other feel differently according to thier experiences.

Some insist lemforder are not worth the money if the bushes only last two years. A fair point. But the question then is what else do we fit? Anything cheaper is a gamble on bush quality as so many here have found to thier cost.

Poly are a get out of jail card if the front bush fails  but only fit these if the rearward bush is still sound. For this reason it is still best to fit lemforder as the rearward bush remains vital for longevity and handling. Lemforder rear bushes last longest.

However if you have a 10ton press with a floating head and drifts that fit the bushes then pressing is viable. But if a member has a press and experience to use it they don't usually need to ask advice here as they know what they are doing.

Generally advice to most members would be, fit lemforder wb's. Then, if the front bush fails fit polly bushes with wb's on the car. There is no need to remove the wb. Gives best life for long as pos.

Vx wb's are in the region of £235 a side.
Lemforders 130 a pair
eBay specials about £50 a pair
Polly bushes £40(?) odd

Some choose to fit polly straight away to new wb's. Job done, giving superior handling for longer. Also saving tyre wear.

Choice is yours and all IMO of course. No doubt others will be along with thier experiences.

You pays ya money....

[HockeyDave55]

Hi Chris,

£235? Holy cow! I know how much these thing cost to make, how do they get away with that???
Even at £130 a pair is a lot! (massive Mark-up)

Thank you for all the advice, as I work for a vehicle development centre, I do have a 20T press, I could possibly use....

The reason I asked was that I have seen the metal section around the rear bush fail before.

I think it's Lem's and address the bushes as needed.....

Thank you...