Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

Omega General Help / Re: Changing the diff, any advice?

« on: 28 November 2007, 18:11:50 »

The old diff, just after I had dropped it down.



The void, sans diff, exhaust in place but lowered off rubber mounts at the rear.



New diff in place, awaiting the driveshafts



Old diff, sans backplate cover.

2

Omega General Help / Re: Changing the diff, any advice?

« on: 28 November 2007, 18:05:08 »

Hello,

I completed a Diff swap back in the summer.

Basically, take your time.  Don't bother with ramps, as already stated, you need to rotate the wheels to get the driveshafts off. Here's a quick run down.

Jack the car up as high as you can and support the rear of the car on axle stands.

Soak the following in plus gas or WD40 at least 12 hours before attacking the job.

- The bolts holding the diff up, there are two at the rear and three on a mounting near the front.
- The pinion bolts
- The bolts at the wheel hubs

I personally left the exhaust in place will the last minute, so worry not about this for the moment.

Using some blocks of wood, wedge the wheel in turn as you remove the 6 bolts holding the driveshaft to the hub. You'll need a breaker bar, extension and a Torx to undo these. Keep these bolts, and the shims that come off (three in total) safe.

Once the shafts are loose, remove the bolts on the pinion, if I recall, the nuts come off but the bolts don't come out completely, keep the nuts safe. The prop should pop off with a little push, its best to tie it up or support it in an axle stand so it doesn't just dangle, as this puts additional strain on the centre bearing.

I managed to get one driveshaft out and had to leave the other one in, if I do the job again in the future, I'll use a crowbar to carefully prise it shaft out, I found it easier than wrestling a heavy diff complete with arm like driveshafts out from under the car!! Label each shaft left and right, so you know which ones which on refitting.

Lower the exhaust, possible even remove it from the cats back if you want it out the way completely.

At this point, I placed my jack at the rear of the diff (the heaviest part) and had a block of wood stretch out thus supporting the whole diff. I jacked up to take the weight and remove each large bolt, remembering where each came from.

Lowering the diff is interesting, I held and lowered very slowly guiding the diff down.

I pulled it out from under the car. Now is a good time to touch up any areas of rust with hammerite, perhaps even break out the waxoyl.

In an ideal world, we'd all have one of those massive three tonne jacks, with the big cup. This would allow us to mount the diff onto the cup and just jack it into position. In the real world, I used my 2.5 tonne halford jack and another jack, with a block of wood, effectively making a bridge for the diff to sit on. The diff was placed on and carefully wheels under the car. Ever so slowly, this platform was raised, till the rear of the diff was in position to get the bolts in at the rear, the two large ones. Lower the diff ever so slightly so it sits at an angle with the pinon facing downwards. At this point I placed the prop nearish the diff, slowly jacking up allowed the prop and pinion to mate together.  You can now put in the three large bolts on the flexi mount, and tighten all bolts to the specified torque, USE NEW BOLTS FOR EACH OF THESE.

Now, I popped the driveshafts in and made sure that the circlip was present, I then check they should not be pulled out with a hard tug, and put all six bolts back in of both sides. Pinion nuts and bolts, all to torque values, using new bolts all round.

At this point, with the exhaust back on and everything together, but the car still in the air, I topped up the diff oil. With the car still in the air, I started her up and drove through the gears up to around an indicated 2500 RPM in 4th. This allowed me to listen for any undue noises from the diff.

A quick test drive revealed all was well.

I can provide some photos of my experience if required.

James

3

Omega General Help / Re: Once slight running fault remains :)

« on: 22 November 2007, 18:31:02 »

The bosch GM MAF's rarely fail....

It's a Siemens one on my 2.0 , unfortunately, not being flushed with cash, I plumped for a second hand item with 28 day warranty .

4

Omega General Help / Re: Once slight running fault remains :)

« on: 22 November 2007, 12:37:43 »

Remember that when crusing at part throttle, this is when the HT system experiences the highest voltage so is the point when any miss fire would be more noticeable (if minor). SUch symptoms tend to point to a failing lead.

Also consider that the EGR might not be quite seating fully or slow to respond due to being carboned up.

This is what I thought as well, part throttle would be when the HT leads would cause most issues, I'll replace the plugs and leads and see what happens here, DIS pack was replaced as part of my trouble shooting process earlier this month.

Not far to go now!!. Will check the EGR, but this hasn't been touched, but I will check and clean it though.

Fuel filter was replaced in August.

5

Omega General Help / Once slight running fault remains :)

« on: 21 November 2007, 21:34:43 »

Hello,

To start, the Omega is far more driveable than it ever was, but one slight running fault remains.

It accelarates cleanly, but when warm, at part throttle it stutters and hunts slighty, this can lead to a slightly jerky drive. I recently disconnected the battery for a few hours to clear any languishing faults that may have been stored. The car idles very smoothly to add.

Items I have replaced (sensor wise, in order).

Lambda Probe
Air flow meter (with working second hand item)
Cam Sensor
Knock Sensor
Crank Angle Sensor (twice as I killed the other one!!)

Even at part throttle, on the flat at 30MPH, in fourth, it's still getting aorund 38-40MPG on the instantaneous readout.

Anyone able to add any views on this one last hurdle?

Thanks,

JAmes

6

Omega General Help / Re: Eureka! - Possibly

« on: 11 November 2007, 11:52:00 »

Thanks all for your responses, the 4 pot with aircon is officially a nightmare to change this £15 sensor on!!. As said, it is worth trying to go the proper route with the wiring, as I routed my first sensor attempt a bit differently and ended up melting it!!.

I had a V6 before this one (with a saab inbetween, but I won't mention that!!) and wish I hadn't had parted with it. Still, you learn. Definately a V6 next time, dare I see, they're possibly a bit easier to work on!!.

7

Omega General Help / Eureka! - Possibly

« on: 10 November 2007, 16:14:22 »

Hello,

I think I have sorted it. My Omega has been sat in my garage, engine supported on a trolley jack, awaiting some small Torx bolts to refit the cam sensor.

Because I have quite large hands, being 6 foot 3 or so, I found that removing the left hand engine mount afforded a huge amount of access!!. I routed the cabling the original path, as I was able to get my hand in behind the A/C / PAS mount comfortably. The sensor slipped in with relative ease and the brand new bolt (I bought five just in case!!) went in hand tight, with just a little nip up from the ratchet to secure it fully.

Everything went back together with relative ease and in 1 1/2 hours, the car was off axle stands, out of the garage, running up to operating temp. At part throttle, at 1500RPM, there's only a very slight stutter. I took the car for a fifteen minute drive down the road, through some slow moving traffic and general stop/start situation that would usually annoy it. It handled these with aplomb.

On returning home I stopped on the drive, turned the car off and opened the garage door. Usually, the rise in temperature would be enough to throw things over the edge, however, on this occasion, it started first time!! and glided effortlessly (for a 2.0) into the garage.

So, my Omega works again.

Remind me to buy a V6 again next time!!!!!!!!

The benefits of removing the mount far outweigh the fiddling around and tight space you get with the mount in place. Having the mount out also allowed me to see the sensor from underneath, it actually sits on the block, at a slight angle, which suprised me as it felt straight onto the block, if that makes sense.

It's been a long and tedious road, but we may be at the end!!

James

8

Omega General Help / Re: Help!!! Damn Crank Sensor

« on: 04 November 2007, 18:06:40 »

I think James is referring to his 2.0, which is a bugger to fit if you have a/c

Isnt the 2.0 routed the same as the 2.2 then??

My 2.2 crank sensor wiring runs up from the sensor and goes in clips just behind the cambelt cover to the other side of the engine where it plugs into a connector  :-/

I think it is, but the route it takes involves going behind the PAS pump/AC Compressor carrier bracket, which is a tight fit and does not allow a huge amount of movement for the sensor, when trying to get the bolt in.

I have just been out and removed the left hand engine mount for added access, I am now leaving the car till next weekend before continuing, as I need to order a load more Torx bolts and an E10 socket, as this also got dropped into the depths of the engine bay (thankfully not down the dipstick hole!!).

Removing the mount does allow a greater level of access, which is beneficial, if rather overkill.

James

9

Omega General Help / Help!!! Damn Crank Sensor

« on: 04 November 2007, 11:41:25 »

Hello,

I am having a nightmare with the fitment of my crank angle sensor. I initially fitted a new one and routed it round the PAS pump and up, however, the sensor failed, it appears as if the sheath melted, which means it must have come in contact with the exhaust manifold, despite being cable tied back.

I have acquired a new, genuine GM sensor and tried to fit this, using the proper route, which was interesting to get to!!.

I am now having trouble getting the bolt into the sensor to bolt it to the block, I have already lost two bolts into the depths of the car (hopefully not down the hole left by the dipstick tube!!!!!.

Does anyone have any tips on getting the sensor and bolt to mate up properly? also, does anyone know of a good mobile mechanic in the Bristol area, who'd be prepared to fit the sensor? I have tried to remove the engine mount, to no avail.

To be perfectly honest, I am close to throwing in the towel on this one. I have spent a lot of time trying to sort the cars niggling faults, such as the rear diff and numerous sensor faults. Admittedly, each repair has improved the car, but this one last stepping stone is rather big and I only have so much patience!!. This is my hobby, but I don't want to have to be out every weekend doing the same job, over and again under the bonnet, my wife is beginning to lose patience, as am I!!!!.

Thanks for any advice,

James.

10

Omega General Help / Re: Continued running problems

« on: 14 October 2007, 21:59:13 »

A new cam sensor from Vx comes with a new length of loom.......you can read into that what you will.

Poor starting sounds like crank sensor to me, the cam sensor is only used for cylinder sequencing for sequential injection (or coil per plug but, it does not have this) so shoudl not have any major affect on starting.

This is what I heard also, I got the sensor from Autovaux, they supplied the older style sensor as 'apparently' the new sensor was not much better than the older style one, how correct this is, I am not certan.

I'll be replacing the crank sensor again , and the knock sensor, as previously mentioned. Apart from that, has there ever been any cases of the loom itself being at fault?

11

Omega General Help / Re: Continued running problems

« on: 14 October 2007, 19:40:28 »

You have to deal with the 0335 which you should never see on a 4 pot.

Also, don't think disconnecting ECU clears codes. Certainly doesn't on Motronics...

I thought so, I have already put on a new crank sensor, cam sensor, MAF, Lambda, but I'll buy another Crank sensor and a knock sensor for it, if that does not solve the problem, a 2.0 will be up for grabs!!

12

Omega General Help / Re: Continued running problems

« on: 14 October 2007, 14:45:57 »

As an other possibility :

Rough Running; Bad Knock Sensor. [Symptom:] Higher idle, no power; running rough at RPM higher than idle. It jerks every few seconds and there is no pattern to it. It idles and starts fine.
[Diagnosis:] Check the knock sensor, it senses knock (no kidding) and retards the timing. When this gets faulty, it will make the engine have very poor power, lousy and jerky acceleration, but will start and idle fine. It's a small black plastic covered unit bolted to the block (ten mil. bolt) under the intake man. with a plug attached to it.

and ....

nope.. I didnt read the second part what you write..if dont start when warm knock sensor is out of question..

I'm not discounting this sensor also, as if you hold the throttle at 2500RPM, it'll run but jump slightly and run lumpily. The hot starting issue is annoying though, as I have just replaced the crank sensor. As I am used to the 2.5 V6, I have no reference for performance on the 2.0, so I can't tell. However, with the fault codes I flashed off before, we seemed to think the knock sensor could be a candidate. May as well replace that as well, but this'll be as far as I take it.

13

Omega General Help / Re: Continued running problems

« on: 14 October 2007, 13:46:36 »

This is the second Cam Sensor you've fitted isn't it? I reckon you should do the Crank Angle Sensor as well now, I know the VX dealer I used to use when I had company cars always used to replace both of them regardless of which one failed first.

AFAIK on the X20XEV either sensor failing causes the limp home mode, unlike the V6. On the X20XEV the Cam Sensor is far a more common failure.

First cam sensor I have fitted, and first Crank Angle Sensor.

I am thinking of doing the Crank Angle Sensor also, but I recently replaced it with a £9 new Ebay special, I guess it is totally possible that this sensor is faulty......despite being new. Wasn't there recently a batch of faulty sensors doing the rounds? supposedly new, but faulty...

14

Omega General Help / Re: Continued running problems

« on: 14 October 2007, 12:36:14 »

The code you read......could it be an old one?

Can you clear the code and see if any come back......

Disconnected the battery yesterday, for several hours, had it disconnected today also. No ECM light has come on since yesterday morning, and last nights code was the CAS sensor, but she is very hard to restart when hot, which says CAM sensor to me.....on the journey home, she ran ok, but was still a little lump at around 1500 to 2500 RPM.

On the journey down, after a 4000RPM plus uphill full throttle blast, she went into limp home mode and refused to rev beyond 4500RPM, which again says cam sensor, however, I didn't pull the faults off on this occasion.

15

Omega General Help / Re: Continued running problems

« on: 14 October 2007, 12:18:26 »

Hello,

Well, I have just been out and tested the voltage output to the battery, it's just over 14 volts at either idle, or 3000 rpm and above. I have dis-connected the battery, removed the ECU, cleaned the connectors coming off the positive terminal of the battery, cleaned all the relays and fuses in the engine bay fuse box, and put it call back together. It is still very lumpy if held on throttle at around 1500RPM, all the way to 2500RPM.

I have checked the cam sensor wiring, and cannot see any splits, frays, etc.

I am beginning to wonder if the loom may be knackered. The problem gets worse as the engine gets warmer, which does say cam sensor to me.

I am getting sick and tired of this as I need something reliable, that I can use and not have to worry about it breaking down in the middle of nowhere, with my 1 year old daughter and I stranded (until the AA arrive).

If anyone has any further ideas, I'd love to hear them, but, I am probably going to have to do something, such as take the car to a vauxhall specialist, admit defeat and let them check it over, run their diagnostic tests, etc. At the moment, I am all out of ideas .

James