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[Gaffers]

The 2.2 and 2.0 engines are pretty straight-forward for HG repair.  Even going steady you can easily do it in a weekend

[SIR Philbutt]

wow that was fast 
I would consider doing it myself but I have no idea as to what's involved ... I know it's a time consuming job but I have been told a bunch of horror stories about these engines and being awful to work on yourself. It's definitely getting repaired no matter what as I love the way Omega's drive and look so I'm kind of attached lol

Are there any guides on the forum for the 2.2 engine??

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=106562.0

Was just about to post that myself, Thanks Rob

When I did this I had not worked on engines for over 30yrs and found it relatively easy (apart from getting the cam belt absolutely right). I was lucky in that I did it at my tame mechanics (old friend) garage and had access to all tools and help.

I have a compacted L3 disc in my back and taking a rest when aggravated didn't strain it and maybe did it some good 

If you are having probs, post on here or PM Me and I will try and help

Go for it and dont forget to brag on here when complete, like I have just done 

[cd 2.2]

similar problem in your back as me .. I have an l5 s1 disc degeneration and a disc prolapse forward above that.

I made a start on it this evening and got the exhaust manifold off (awkward to get it ut through the gap available), someone has been at it before as the two front studs have been sheared off ... I used a ton of swarfega duck oil and took my time never sheared one (morons).
I took loads of pics as I went doing this and hope to make a step by step guide when I'm done but I'm going to take a month or so doing the work as the pennies are tight lol

I'm expecting to have to have it skimmed and pressure tested as soon as the head is removed and hope it's not cracked as that would be bad, was quoted £28+ VAT for the skim £30+ VAT for the pressure test + whatever it costs to get the 2 studs out that a previous heavy handed spanner monkey broke.
Will keep you all posted as I go with progress and any problems but still have the problem of getting all the mayo gunk out of everything and the best method to do so
Graham

[henryd]

The studs may have snapped on there own accord without outside assistance,it does happen

[cd 2.2]

well today I have started to dismantle the inlet side  omg how complicated
The cam cover has sealent instead of a gasket and none of the plugs are visible due to the amount of oil in there lol.
I would definitely say this is a task that the novice should avoid and i'm already fed up of my knees hurting from bending over the drivers wing to get the inlet off haha
It's looking like someone has been in the top end before so i'm kida scared as to what I'm going to find lurking under that head

[Sir Tigger KC]

Sounds like you can only improve things!    Good luck!! 

[cd 2.2]

Another update on progress for today... The inlet manifold is now totaly stripped down I think. The camshafts are out and the timing belt is off ( it was worryingly loose ), The only documented change I can see was done @ 37k ish by VX stealer on third service stamp. All the things I can see are GM stamped so I'm going to guess this is the only one it's ever had.... 8 years on it's reading 116801 miles.  The water pump looks like it's had a leak since forever too so I'm glad to be changing all of this.
Biggest snags so far are the camshaft pulley bolts are waaay tighter than I could manage to undoo so I had to remove them with sprockets attached (left was easy to get out right one is a pig to do). The seals need doing so 2ft breaker bar and spanner is going to be the answer i think. Head bolts OMG tight as as hell so 2ft breaker and T55? for those too I guess.
I will be sure to put pics of what I find when the head is off, oh and the damn manifold has a crack in it (don't they all?) . More updates soon Graham

[05omegav6]

Stick at it

[cd 2.2]

Right today has seen the head removed from the engine, The heater bypass valve made this oh so much fun
The head was blown at No-1 oil to compression and maybe water too, No-4 water to compression and has been run on blue antifreeze at some point as the therostat is neon blue stained (when do people ever learn).
There appears to be a major warp on the back edge of the head when checked with a quality straight edge and some of the water channels have above 1mm deep pitting around them, worse at No-4 where the pitting is into the edge of the combustion chamber part. I will be getting the head off to the engineer in the next couple of weeks and see what they can do with it .. at worst I will need to get a new head but that's no big issue as it's the same as the 2.0 (2.0L and 2.2L stamped on the head itself) correct me if I am wrong.

Things to note so far with this job if your going to take it on yourself are:

- If you don't want to hurt yourself getting the head bolts out, Go to Halfords and buy a 2 foot 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and the 1/2 inch drive T55 socket. With this the head bolts come out like they are nothing lol.

-  Allow alot of time for the job, If I was in a rush I would say 4 days including the head skim (I'm not in a rush)

- Be prepared to have to buy a new manifold as they seem to crack when the HG fails for some reason

I'm so far having alot of fun doing this job even though I'm working to a slow pace with limited funds, a ruined back and my retarded mistake pulling the injector rail out and dislocating my knee on the bumper 
This is not the job from hell that I'm endlessly told it is by garages, a car is a car and the miggy is no different. I will upload the head piccys as soon as I can find the camera cable and start to compile a how to guide for getting the head removed as it may help save some cars that don't deserve to be scrapped

[Ever Ready]

I think the heads are inter changeable but not 100% sure

2.0 Bore & Stroke is 86mm x 86mm  giving 1998cc

2.2 Bore & Stroke is 86mm x 94.6mm giving 2198cc

Same bore and longer/shorter stroke usually means heads can be used on different capacity engines as long as the oil ways etc are identical

hth

Here is a wiki link which might help

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Family_II_engine

[cd 2.2]

Finally today saw the removal of the unfortunately quite warped head but on the + side made me make a rough guide for all to follow!
I will be sure to let you guys know what the machine shop can do with it, if anything 

[Raymienets]

Cheers for the post. My 2.2 is beginning to suffer the same fate, every time I start the engine you would think we have a new pope anyway was contemplating attempting doing the head myself  now you have given me a bit more confidence to tackle the job? Will wait until you post some pics. cheers

[Kevin Wood]

Make sure that the combustion chambers are the same volume if swapping 2.0 and 2.2 heads. There's a significant difference in capacity so the combustion chambers need to be a different volume. That may be taken up in the head itself or by dishing the pistons. I'm not familiar enough with that engine to know which. If they aren't the same you run the risk of a very sluggish engine with too low compression or too much compression which will cause knock.

[Gaffers]

Make sure that the combustion chambers are the same volume if swapping 2.0 and 2.2 heads. There's a significant difference in capacity so the combustion chambers need to be a different volume. That may be taken up in the head itself or by dishing the pistons. I'm not familiar enough with that engine to know which. If they aren't the same you run the risk of a very sluggish engine with too low compression or too much compression which will cause knock.

Was thinking the same.  You can get away with skimming the 2.2 and 2.0 heads which should sort out your warping issue.  As long as the head is not cracked you should be fine

[cd 2.2]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=121234.0

done this for people considering the job on their own cars

Raymienets, I know you were interested in pictures to assess the job at hand, hope it helps others on here also