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Author Topic: Rear Brakes  (Read 16178 times)

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gbh

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Rear Brakes
« on: 22 April 2020, 21:11:55 »

I've been meaning to do the service the rear brakes and with the fine weather and this lockdown decided now was the time to give it my first ever go.It's been a challenge but I'm getting there slowly from struggling to get the discs off etc so could do with a little help and advice of course.First up the caliper bolts were held in with blue coloured threadlock I have some red here somewhere would that be suitable or only blue or nothing?The spring cross clip came off in 2 pieces and it's for the vented brakes if I can't get one could I nut and bolt it?Gm shoes are on it and they have worn about a third and appear to have bits of rust embedded in this surface clean and reuse or bin?Discs are rusted on the outside lip and there is a 1mm lip inside and out,clean this off or replace?Recommended  Discs? Pads are likewise worn but still meaty but if I change discs then new pads too any recommended? Thanks in advance for any tips
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #1 on: 22 April 2020, 21:18:29 »

Fitting kit is VX only. You could rivet them if all else fails.

Replace the rest. Only use vented discs, any brand will suffice. Genuine pads are/were available on Ebay for about a tenner.

Replace the pads one at a time with the caliper bolted on, then swap the disc. Failure to follow this will almost certainly cause a piston to pop out... An unnecessary ballache.

Service the business end of the handbrake whilst you're at it :y
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gbh

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #2 on: 22 April 2020, 21:32:15 »

Do you mean fit the disc then bolt on the caliper then install pads?
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gbh

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #3 on: 22 April 2020, 21:35:31 »

Is that grease up by the handbrake handle end is there a guide on that do you know and if I can get to it which I think is unlikely as I don't have a pit
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #4 on: 22 April 2020, 21:47:55 »

Do you mean fit the disc then bolt on the caliper then install pads?
Nope.

Caliper, with old pads, on the old disc.
Pins/clip out.
Lever the outer pad against the disc until the piston is home.
Replace outer pad.
Lever inner pad against the disc until the piston is home.
Replace inner pad.
Unbolt caliper.
Remove disc.
Service hand brake.
Fit new disc.
Re bolt caliper to torque (never used threadlock personally).
Repeat on other side.  :y
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gbh

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #5 on: 22 April 2020, 22:14:32 »

Ah got ya! Shame I already removed the old discs so I hope I don't have a problem.Perhaps the guide needs to be updated with this information. Do you happen to know the torque or should I look elsewhere? Thanks
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #6 on: 22 April 2020, 22:19:49 »

60 lbft springs to mind ;)

Just lob them back on to change the pads.

The process I outlined is both to prevent the opposite piston from popping out (they won't come out square, which prevents you from simply pushing them back in) and you don't want to be levering against the shiny new discs ;)
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gbh

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #7 on: 22 April 2020, 23:03:05 »

Thanks for the advice much appreciated
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johnnydog

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #8 on: 22 April 2020, 23:18:00 »

Whenever I have removed rear brake pads and the caliper in order to change the rear discs (or just to remove them to clean out any brake dust from the handbrake shoes), I have never had any issue with piston movement whilst the pads are out.
Seems an unnecessary faff being honest. If there were any concerns about movement of the pistons whilst the caliper is unbolted and moved out of the way, you could just leave a piston speader in situ whilst fitting the new discs before refitting the caliper.
But personally I've never had a problem with the rear pistons moving whilst the rear pads have been out during my 16 years of Omega ownership.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #9 on: 22 April 2020, 23:23:30 »

You misread my advice.

If you remove both pads prior to pushing the pistons back on any fixed caliper, you run the risk of pushing the opposing piston out.

Rear pad change on the Omega takes all of ten minutes for both calipers using nowt more than a flat bladed screwdriver and a pair of pliers ::)
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johnnydog

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #10 on: 23 April 2020, 00:35:13 »

That is all the more reason to use a 'winder' piston spreader to push both pistons back simultaneously, rather than using a pry bar, screwdriver or in some cases a pair of wide jaw filter pliers. For the small cost of a spreader its not worth risking damage or problems using improvised methods which just retract one piston at a time.
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #11 on: 23 April 2020, 00:44:32 »

The pliers are simply to pull the old pad out.

More than one way to do the job...  ;)
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terry paget

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #12 on: 23 April 2020, 08:14:07 »

Do you mean fit the disc then bolt on the caliper then install pads?
Nope.

Caliper, with old pads, on the old disc.
Pins/clip out.
Lever the outer pad against the disc until the piston is home.
Replace outer pad.
Lever inner pad against the disc until the piston is home.
Replace inner pad.
Unbolt caliper.
Remove disc.
Service hand brake.
Fit new disc.
Re bolt caliper to torque (never used threadlock personally).
Repeat on other side.  :y
Nor do I. I appreciate on original assembly it is good practice. but it makes dissembly more difficult. I reuse the original bolts and copper ease the threads. :y
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gbh

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #13 on: 23 April 2020, 10:48:40 »

Those bolts took some getting out with a hammer but the discs were on pretty well but penetrating fluid overnight and a good whack in the morning and they came off straight away.
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gbh

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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #14 on: 23 April 2020, 10:51:38 »

Now have to source discs and pads and repair the spring clip.Have seen a genuine set of pads for £59 with fitting kit but seems pricey too me
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