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[Lizzie Zoom]

a simple bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 dongle from amazon or ebay (£5 ish) and a free copy of the TORQUE app on your phone if android
plenty of youtube videos 

Thanks for that tip Dave.

I have been studying the ones on Amazon, but there seems to be a whole range of prices.  I do not need one that covers diesels or trucks, so which price range / brand is the right one for an Omega please?

Certainly between £15 and £35 is a price I am prepared to pay, but...........................what is really the best?

[Lizzie Zoom]

Thanks Dave and DG.

I will try the battery disconnection first, as I wouldnt know where to plug in a dongle

Failing that I will just see my Vx dealer to get them to rectify.  PS After reading another thread on dealers reading the codes, perhaps I will not!!

It is not worth driving the 232 miles round trip to see Serek.   

You don't know what has triggered the codes, and it has only happened since having work done.

As I see it's you have three choices:

1. Take it back to Serek to fix.
2. Pay another garage to diagnose and correct it. Which will include going over any work recently done.
3. Ignore the whole thing and hope it goes away.

232 miles may not be "worth it" but the savings you are trying to achieve will cost far more than a tank of fuel. Especially if he hasn't done simple stuff like checking everything disturbed is correctly fitted.

And whilst it is incredibly noble of James V6* to offer to work for near free, that doesn't address the fact that the work you paid Serek to complete has potentially caused issues and as a commercial garage he has an obligation to fix any issues resulting from work done and having anyone else look at it will waive your right to recourse.

Not wanting to over egg the omelette, but if that vacuum pipe had come loose then you could have been left with a runaway engine and no brakes. Whilst driving home with your grandson.

* He hasn't yet and not should he.

I understand where you are coming from DG.  But I place no blame on Serek as he did all the work I required to a great standard, in just a few hours, and charged a very fair price.  I drove the car all the way back over the 116 miles without issue.  I then used the car around town all weekend.  It was only yesterday morning that the split, loose, breather pipe came to the surface. n I knew this pipe was not perfect at my last service in 2022, but it did still offer a good seal for the breather /plenum.  When Serek refitted the plenum he made the pipe seal well again, but sods law is that the split was slightly worse after it was refitted, and eventually gave way.  In no way was Serek responsible for this in the scheme of things as it was just bad luck that the pipe failed yesterday, but now I have fixed that issue, and tightened a loose connection.

Although the light is showing now, I am confident, as much as we can ever be with cars, that the cause of warning light staying on after codes were created, has been fixed.  It is now just a case of cancelling down the codes.  Then the problem will be fixed.  If not, it is something more serious and, although I do not understand the meaning of the "Fuel trim malfunctions", I will just take the plenum right off and take the opportunity of carrying out a major service, earlier than planned, with the replacement of the offending breather pipe whilst I can.  I feel there is little point in taking the car back to Serek

So that is the plan, which is not really much of a challenge compared to what I have had to historically do on my personal cars.  I will sort it!

 

[LC0112G]

"Fuel Trim Malfunction" means the ECU is having to inject more (or less) fuel into the engine than it expects to in order to get the lambda sensor readings into range. This can be caused by either an inlet manifold air leak, or an exhaust leak.

The ECU measures the amount of air entering the engine from the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) on the side of the airbox. Once it knows how much air is going into the engine, it calculates how much fuel to inject to burn all the oxygen most efficiently - the ratio is called stoichimetric and is (approximatley) 14.7g of oxygen per 1g of petrol. So the ECU calculates the fuel injector duration based on that mix.

The lambda sensors measure the results of the actual combustion. If the exhaust is too rich, it tweaks the injector duration down a bit. If the mix is too lean it tweaks it up a bit. There are limits on the amount of tweaking though, and if the ECU cannot get the exhaust to be spot on within these limits then it will throw these trouble codes.

An air leak on on the inlet manifold allows unmetered air into the inlet manifold, which the ECU hasn't 'measured' by the MAF sensor, so the ECU doesn't inject enough fuel to burn the mix, and the lambdas see a lean exhaust. If the leak is big enough then you get these fault codes.

The ECU learns and remembers the fuel trims over a long period. On most systems you can reset them back to default by disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes. Don't know if this works on a 3.2 though. Some systems also clear the trouble codes after a number of error free starts - typically 50 or so.

I still doubt the breathers are responsible - I ran my car for a few weeks with them disconnected although that is a 3.0. The Brake servo pipe is another issue - that's quite big and if it's loose enough could allow a lot of air unmetered in. Tighten it up. Now. It's also possible to mess up the 6 O rings between the plenium and the manifold.

[YZ250]

It’s always handy to have a code reader in your car, regardless of make. Most of the cheaper code readers (dongles) easily fit in the glovebox or the cheaper generic type can be tucked away in the boot. You have it with you at all times then.
I used my Autel to read and clear codes successfully on my Omega 3.2 on many occasions. Mine also does live data but only works on engine codes. I carried a Carly dongle in my BMW’s and I carry OBDEleven (VAGCom) dongle in our Audi’s.
If I lived nearer I’d clear the codes for you , is there nobody within a sensible distance. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Thanks Dave and DG.

I will try the battery disconnection first, as I wouldnt know where to plug in a dongle

Failing that I will just see my Vx dealer to get them to rectify.  PS After reading another thread on dealers reading the codes, perhaps I will not!!

It is not worth driving the 232 miles round trip to see Serek.   

You don't know what has triggered the codes, and it has only happened since having work done.

As I see it's you have three choices:

1. Take it back to Serek to fix.
2. Pay another garage to diagnose and correct it. Which will include going over any work recently done.
3. Ignore the whole thing and hope it goes away.

232 miles may not be "worth it" but the savings you are trying to achieve will cost far more than a tank of fuel. Especially if he hasn't done simple stuff like checking everything disturbed is correctly fitted.

And whilst it is incredibly noble of James V6* to offer to work for near free, that doesn't address the fact that the work you paid Serek to complete has potentially caused issues and as a commercial garage he has an obligation to fix any issues resulting from work done and having anyone else look at it will waive your right to recourse.

Not wanting to over egg the omelette, but if that vacuum pipe had come loose then you could have been left with a runaway engine and no brakes. Whilst driving home with your grandson.

* He hasn't yet and not should he.

I understand where you are coming from DG.  But I place no blame on Serek as he did all the work I required to a great standard, in just a few hours, and charged a very fair price.  I drove the car all the way back over the 116 miles without issue.  I then used the car around town all weekend.  It was only yesterday morning that the split, loose, breather pipe came to the surface. n I knew this pipe was not perfect at my last service in 2022, but it did still offer a good seal for the breather /plenum.  When Serek refitted the plenum he made the pipe seal well again, but sods law is that the split was slightly worse after it was refitted, and eventually gave way.  In no way was Serek responsible for this in the scheme of things as it was just bad luck that the pipe failed yesterday, but now I have fixed that issue, and tightened a loose connection.

Although the light is showing now, I am confident, as much as we can ever be with cars, that the cause of warning light staying on after codes were created, has been fixed.  It is now just a case of cancelling down the codes.  Then the problem will be fixed.  If not, it is something more serious and, although I do not understand the meaning of the "Fuel trim malfunctions", I will just take the plenum right off and take the opportunity of carrying out a major service, earlier than planned, with the replacement of the offending breather pipe whilst I can.  I feel there is little point in taking the car back to Serek

So that is the plan, which is not really much of a challenge compared to what I have had to historically do on my personal cars.  I will sort it!

 

Apparently he didn't 

That "loose connection" should never have been loose. Notwithstanding the split hose.

You have identified two issues, one of which was present following previous work and still unresolved and another that might have killed you or your grandson.

If that's to a great standard, then you have much bigger problems.

[Lizzie Zoom]

"Fuel Trim Malfunction" means the ECU is having to inject more (or less) fuel into the engine than it expects to in order to get the lambda sensor readings into range. This can be caused by either an inlet manifold air leak, or an exhaust leak.

The ECU measures the amount of air entering the engine from the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) on the side of the airbox. Once it knows how much air is going into the engine, it calculates how much fuel to inject to burn all the oxygen most efficiently - the ratio is called stoichimetric and is (approximatley) 14.7g of oxygen per 1g of petrol. So the ECU calculates the fuel injector duration based on that mix.

The lambda sensors measure the results of the actual combustion. If the exhaust is too rich, it tweaks the injector duration down a bit. If the mix is too lean it tweaks it up a bit. There are limits on the amount of tweaking though, and if the ECU cannot get the exhaust to be spot on within these limits then it will throw these trouble codes.

An air leak on on the inlet manifold allows unmetered air into the inlet manifold, which the ECU hasn't 'measured' by the MAF sensor, so the ECU doesn't inject enough fuel to burn the mix, and the lambdas see a lean exhaust. If the leak is big enough then you get these fault codes.

The ECU learns and remembers the fuel trims over a long period. On most systems you can reset them back to default by disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes. Don't know if this works on a 3.2 though. Some systems also clear the trouble codes after a number of error free starts - typically 50 or so.

I still doubt the breathers are responsible - I ran my car for a few weeks with them disconnected although that is a 3.0. The Brake servo pipe is another issue - that's quite big and if it's loose enough could allow a lot of air unmetered in. Tighten it up. Now. It's also possible to mess up the 6 O rings between the plenium and the manifold.

Thanks for that

I have taken that on board, and will decide what action to take once I try to cancel down the codes

[Lizzie Zoom]

It’s always handy to have a code reader in your car, regardless of make. Most of the cheaper code readers (dongles) easily fit in the glovebox or the cheaper generic type can be tucked away in the boot. You have it with you at all times then.
I used my Autel to read and clear codes successfully on my Omega 3.2 on many occasions. Mine also does live data but only works on engine codes. I carried a Carly dongle in my BMW’s and I carry OBDEleven (VAGCom) dongle in our Audi’s.
If I lived nearer I’d clear the codes for you , is there nobody within a sensible distance. 

Yes, I have decided to buy one no matter what happens with the codes over the next few days.

Thanks for that sentiment YZ250, but no OOF is thin on the ground in this part of Kent so I will do what I can myself - well, at least to start with!!

[Lizzie Zoom]

Thanks Dave and DG.

I will try the battery disconnection first, as I wouldnt know where to plug in a dongle

Failing that I will just see my Vx dealer to get them to rectify.  PS After reading another thread on dealers reading the codes, perhaps I will not!!

It is not worth driving the 232 miles round trip to see Serek.   

You don't know what has triggered the codes, and it has only happened since having work done.

As I see it's you have three choices:

1. Take it back to Serek to fix.
2. Pay another garage to diagnose and correct it. Which will include going over any work recently done.
3. Ignore the whole thing and hope it goes away.

232 miles may not be "worth it" but the savings you are trying to achieve will cost far more than a tank of fuel. Especially if he hasn't done simple stuff like checking everything disturbed is correctly fitted.

And whilst it is incredibly noble of James V6* to offer to work for near free, that doesn't address the fact that the work you paid Serek to complete has potentially caused issues and as a commercial garage he has an obligation to fix any issues resulting from work done and having anyone else look at it will waive your right to recourse.

Not wanting to over egg the omelette, but if that vacuum pipe had come loose then you could have been left with a runaway engine and no brakes. Whilst driving home with your grandson.

* He hasn't yet and not should he.

I understand where you are coming from DG.  But I place no blame on Serek as he did all the work I required to a great standard, in just a few hours, and charged a very fair price.  I drove the car all the way back over the 116 miles without issue.  I then used the car around town all weekend.  It was only yesterday morning that the split, loose, breather pipe came to the surface. n I knew this pipe was not perfect at my last service in 2022, but it did still offer a good seal for the breather /plenum.  When Serek refitted the plenum he made the pipe seal well again, but sods law is that the split was slightly worse after it was refitted, and eventually gave way.  In no way was Serek responsible for this in the scheme of things as it was just bad luck that the pipe failed yesterday, but now I have fixed that issue, and tightened a loose connection.

Although the light is showing now, I am confident, as much as we can ever be with cars, that the cause of warning light staying on after codes were created, has been fixed.  It is now just a case of cancelling down the codes.  Then the problem will be fixed.  If not, it is something more serious and, although I do not understand the meaning of the "Fuel trim malfunctions", I will just take the plenum right off and take the opportunity of carrying out a major service, earlier than planned, with the replacement of the offending breather pipe whilst I can.  I feel there is little point in taking the car back to Serek

So that is the plan, which is not really much of a challenge compared to what I have had to historically do on my personal cars.  I will sort it!

 

Apparently he didn't 

That "loose connection" should never have been loose. Notwithstanding the split hose.

You have identified two issues, one of which was present following previous work and still unresolved and another that might have killed you or your grandson.

If that's to a great standard, then you have much bigger problems.

What!!!
How and why please.  You are scaring me now!

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Might be worth using a small cable tie to secure the hose to the plenum, as its split and in the habit of coming off.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Might be worth using a small cable tie to secure the hose to the plenum, as its split and in the habit of coming off.

Indeed!  I have taped it up tightly with heat resistant Gorilla Tape, plus used a jubilee clip,  so at the moment it is VERY secure

[dave the builder]

a simple bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 dongle from amazon or ebay (£5 ish) and a free copy of the TORQUE app on your phone if android
plenty of youtube videos 

Thanks for that tip Dave.

I have been studying the ones on Amazon, but there seems to be a whole range of prices.  I do not need one that covers diesels or trucks, so which price range / brand is the right one for an Omega please?

Certainly between £15 and £35 is a price I am prepared to pay, but...........................what is really the best?

if you've GOT TO spend that much then just buy several of these £4.59 items   or similar 
(that listing says UK stock with Economy Delivery Royal Mail Tracked 48)

OR
buy just one @ £4.59
put the rest of the budget in a metal tin (it can't burn a hole in your pocket then) 

[Doctor Gollum]

What!!!
How and why please.  You are scaring me now!

The loose nut on the side of the plenum as you put it is the vacuum line for the brake booster.

If it had come undone then you would have no brake servo and a massive airleak directly into the inlet manifold. The second thing would see the ECU add fuel to try to keep up.

The first thing might go unnoticed until you had used the brakes. Now imagine finding out that you have no brake assistance on the M1/25/20 when the traffic ahead suddenly stopped. By the time your brain has caught up, you're in the back of the car in front. At speed. Granted that's a worst case, and it's not a question of blaming or pointing fingers, but if they, as a garage, did or didn't do something accidentally, deliberately or otherwise, then they have a legal obligation to put it right.

A point I did allude to much earlier today but you chose to skim read.

Your first port of call should have been to call Serek and ask why your vacuum pipe nut was loose and secondarily why the EML has come on following very recent work at SOS and go from there.

[Lizzie Zoom]

a simple bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 dongle from amazon or ebay (£5 ish) and a free copy of the TORQUE app on your phone if android
plenty of youtube videos 

Thanks for that tip Dave.

I have been studying the ones on Amazon, but there seems to be a whole range of prices.  I do not need one that covers diesels or trucks, so which price range / brand is the right one for an Omega please?

Certainly between £15 and £35 is a price I am prepared to pay, but...........................what is really the best?

if you've GOT TO spend that much then just buy several of these £4.59 items   or similar 
(that listing says UK stock with Economy Delivery Royal Mail Tracked 48)

OR
buy just one @ £4.59
put the rest of the budget in a metal tin (it can't burn a hole in your pocket then) 

    Thanks Dave, I have just ordered one, saving me greatly!

[Lizzie Zoom]

What!!!
How and why please.  You are scaring me now!

The loose nut on the side of the plenum as you put it is the vacuum line for the brake booster.

If it had come undone then you would have no brake servo and a massive airleak directly into the inlet manifold. The second thing would see the ECU add fuel to try to keep up.

The first thing might go unnoticed until you had used the brakes. Now imagine finding out that you have no brake assistance on the M1/25/20 when the traffic ahead suddenly stopped. By the time your brain has caught up, you're in the back of the car in front. At speed. Granted that's a worst case, and it's not a question of blaming or pointing fingers, but if they, as a garage, did or didn't do something accidentally, deliberately or otherwise, then they have a legal obligation to put it right.

A point I did allude to much earlier today but you chose to skim read.

Your first port of call should have been to call Serek and ask why your vacuum pipe nut was loose and secondarily why the EML has come on following very recent work at SOS and go from there.

I understand now

The brakes were great though, after Serek had replaced the rear pads. So, maybe we were at risk, but nothing showed.

But that nut on the pipe was loose, so why didn’t that fault show in the way you suggest?

[Doctor Gollum]

What!!!
How and why please.  You are scaring me now!

The loose nut on the side of the plenum as you put it is the vacuum line for the brake booster.

If it had come undone then you would have no brake servo and a massive airleak directly into the inlet manifold. The second thing would see the ECU add fuel to try to keep up.

The first thing might go unnoticed until you had used the brakes. Now imagine finding out that you have no brake assistance on the M1/25/20 when the traffic ahead suddenly stopped. By the time your brain has caught up, you're in the back of the car in front. At speed. Granted that's a worst case, and it's not a question of blaming or pointing fingers, but if they, as a garage, did or didn't do something accidentally, deliberately or otherwise, then they have a legal obligation to put it right.

A point I did allude to much earlier today but you chose to skim read.

Your first port of call should have been to call Serek and ask why your vacuum pipe nut was loose and secondarily why the EML has come on following very recent work at SOS and go from there.

I understand now

The brakes were great though, after Serek had replaced the rear pads. So, maybe we were at risk, but nothing showed.

The rear pads have nothing to do with brake vacuum boost performance.

We're talking about the difference between normal squishy Omega brakes and trying to push the pedal through the radiator just to knock 5mph off the speed.

If your pet dealer had done this, you would be screaming blue murder about it instead of blowing smoke up his arse.