Thanks for your suggestions, but like I said, I had a really good tutorial with me, from guy who also did tens if not hundreds of cambelts. His tut didn't involve a locking tool, but drill bits 
and again, his tut included a plan B in case wheels goes off.
For me it is pointless buying a locking tool as I don't own a garage and I don't do this for money.
xYz, nobody is trying to give you any bad feedback, just advice. Believe me, you REALLY DO need a locking kit on this engine. I accept that most engines can be done without, but not this one. This engine, unlike your more common inline engines, has infinately adjustable cam timing between each back (though the 2 cams on each bank are preset). To get the tensioner set correctly, the cam timing should be perfect (which is not measurable without the kit).
Bank one is timed to bank two, which is timed to the crank. Due to the infinately variable timing, you cannot time bank 2 to the crank. At best, you can get an approximate guess. Due to the infinately variable timing, you cannot correctly time bank 1 to the approx/guessed timing on bank 2. By the time you get to setting the tensioner, the whole thing is so far out, that it really is setting it blind.
This is not the setup seen on most cars, where the timing is preset at design, by the number of teeth between each component
As Marks DTM Calib said, better than having a shagged up tensioner, but still definately worth trying to do it properly soon
. I would highly recommend that.
Hopefully somebody nearby would be willing to lend you a kit for a day or 2
As said, nobody is 'getting at you'.
To other members - if your garage/mechanic reckons he can do a GM V6 without a full locking kit, go elsewhere. He is wrong. No ifs or buts. He is wrong. End of.
Author
Topic: Usual cambelt arguement (Read 10431 times)