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[vexorg]

As title, where can I find an exploded diagram of the rear end suspension?

Is it the same for all models? or is there some difference between early/late or 4cyl/v6?

[TheBoy]

all Omegas are same (though springs/shocks may vary with age/model)

[tunnie]

Higher models have more sensors / looms for self leveling, but all have same basic setup. What are you looking to do?

[vexorg]

What are you looking to do?

Just some mad idea right now... 

[2woody]

steering rack position - that's what's going to kill the idea 

[vexorg]

steering rack position - that's what's going to kill the idea 

That's another on-going project  angle-grinder at the ready

I noticed the trailing arms look almost identical to the calibra, but you have camber adjustment. And the camber is a killer on lowered calibras.

[2woody]

yes, that's possible.

you'll need to pay attention to the rear mounting - I can't just remember what that is on the Calibra.

It may be that your best starting point is an Omega A subframe, as it's more likely that you have the same rear mountings. BUT, make it a post-facelift Omega A 24V non-estate, as these are the only ones that have the camber adjustment. then there's also the 4 stud / 5 stud issue.

Om Omega B, the camber adjustment isn't really that - its part of the rear steer mechanism. The cars have a stiff outer bush in the semi-trailing arm and a weak ( axially-compliant ) inner bush. The extra link ensures that as the wheel moves up and down through its arc of travel, there is some camber and toe-in imparted - the result is better handling.

The flip side is that this only works with the vehicle at normal ride height - if it has been lowered at all, then the handling will be worse, possibly to the extent that the suspension will partially bind up. It also only works if you have the "weak" inner bush.

so, to summarise, If you're after imparting Omega B - style handling to your car, then go for it. If you're after realigning the camber after you've lowered your car, then this won't help you at all.

to get the mod, you'll need :-

subframe and semi-trailing arms from Carlton GSi 24V or Senator 24V
hubs if you already have 4 stud wheels
springs to give you "standard" ride height

[vexorg]

That's not so good, carlton gsi's aren't so easy to find.

Mine are both 5 stud cars.

On the omega B, there's the big adjusting bar, you're saying that will change the toe in as well as camber. Is there a pivot point on the hub itself?

Might be easier just getting a hold of one to see, I've only had a brief look under a car to see it. Difficult to see where all the bits were connected.

[Liam]

Yes - as far as I'm aware, the rear adjustment is finding a happy compromise between camber and toe. If you are trying to correct camber on an excessively lowered car, you would probably therefore end up with toe being way out.

[2woody]

That's not so good, carlton gsi's aren't so easy to find.

Mine are both 5 stud cars.

On the omega B, there's the big adjusting bar, you're saying that will change the toe in as well as camber. Is there a pivot point on the hub itself?

Might be easier just getting a hold of one to see, I've only had a brief look under a car to see it. Difficult to see where all the bits were connected.

I have spare....

[david036]

Was there a diagram of the suspension?  Having similar mad ideas......thinking of putting mine into a mini!!!!!

[feeutfo]

Yes - as far as I'm aware, the rear adjustment is finding a happy compromise between camber and toe. If you are trying to correct camber on an excessively lowered car, you would probably therefore end up with toe being way out.

That is my understanding as well, toe for main adjustment but also affects camber so a compromise to be found.

 Interesting comments re suspension tying up at lower ride hights. I presume the tie rod adjuster pulls the rear suspension trailing arm within rubber "play" of the trailing arm bushes, and might explain why an mv6 with irmscher suspension,30 mill lower, would appear to have less play or movement in the rubber trailing arm bush than a newer model elite at stock ride hight....?

This was noticed at Ashridge meet when comparing my wayward handling elite with The Boys prefacelift mv6. problems with my car latter blamed solely on the falcon 912 tyres.

[feeutfo]

Yes - as far as I'm aware, the rear adjustment is finding a happy compromise between camber and toe. If you are trying to correct camber on an excessively lowered car, you would probably therefore end up with toe being way out.

That is my understanding as well, toe for main adjustment but also affects camber so a compromise to be found.

 Interesting comments re suspension tying up at lower ride hights. I presume the tie rod adjuster pulls the rear suspension trailing arm within rubber "play" of the trailing arm bushes, and might explain why an mv6 with irmscher suspension,30 mill lower, would appear to have less play or movement in the rubber trailing arm bush than a newer model elite at stock ride hight....?

This was noticed at Ashridge meet when comparing my wayward handling elite with The Boys prefacelift mv6. problems with my car latter blamed solely on the falcon 912 tyres.

.....and also presumed that the position of the trailing arm pivot points gives some camber as it's compressed as the inner trailing arm pivot point is set rearward of the outer pivot....? (iirc)

[2woody]

you're sort of there....

the whole idea is to get the outer rear wheel to toe in on corners, and for this system to be easily adapted to the Omega A suspension.

the semi-trailing arm isn't pivoted straight across the car, or level for that matter. This is deliberate to get a compromise between roll centre and camber and to get a little toe-in on corners. In order to do this, the attitude of the arm to the car is absolutely critical.

now, for the system with the extra link, when the wheel moves up, like it would in a corner, the semi-trailing arm pivots around both the centreline of the bushes, but also about the outer stiff bush, allowing it to toe-in some more - it's a sort of 3D movement.

the problem comes when a car is lowered - the amount of extra toe-in will increase, even if the static toe has been corrected, so you'll be in a position where you'll have unknown toe-in variations to both sides in addition to the negative effects of moving the roll centre.

almost certainly, this will result in a lower car handling worse.

for interest, the case for the front suspension is more clear cut - lowering this WILL worsen the handling.

[feeutfo]

Fascinating stuff all this, trouble is I don't understand it as well written down as when it's in front of me, I need to see it, does anyone have the above mentioned diag ? Must admit I looked on the net a while back and couldn't find much.