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[Malcolm_D]

The battery on my 02 2.6 Elite appears to be struggling to hold a charge, a couple of times recently it has been unable to start the car. I replaced the alternator last year and that appears to be working fine when tested as per the guide. If anyone can recommend a decent make to buy, will most likely go for a higher ampage as we tow a caravan and from experience the car battery always takes some 'stick'. 

[jonny2112]

I think it's always best to go genuine? Should be available on TC and will outlast the likes of Halfords. Not sure about the towing aspect, but someone else will know 

[Lazydocker]

Genuine on TC works out cheaper/about the same as Hellfrauds and pattern batteries and last much longer

[adey2]

i tow all the time and just got standard battery on mine, it the alternator that should do the work, battery is there for starting obviously and when drain is higher then alternator can manage, ie cold nights when lights, heaters, seat heaters all on together, theory has it that during daylight running when drain less it then puts back into the battery any it lost

[Lazydocker]

If the draw ever exceeds what the alternator can manage then there's a problem The battery is only there for starting In the past I've driven cars around with no battery (once started)

[adey2]

that is not a good practice as the alternator varies voltage and can destroy sensitive items hence the name alternator

[Andy B]

that is not a good practice as the alternator varies voltage and can destroy sensitive items hence the name alternator

If the draw ever exceeds what the alternator can manage then there's a problem The battery is only there for starting In the past I've driven cars around with no battery (once started)

You beat me to it! I was going to say that. 

[Entwood]

that is not a good practice as the alternator varies voltage and can destroy sensitive items hence the name alternator

And there I was thinking it was an alternator because it produces an AC (alternating current) output which is rectified to DC for use in the car environment ... as against the old fashioned dynamo that produced a DC output ....

I will admit that it USED to be the practice not to run without a battery as the old fashioned carbon pile voltage regulators needed something to work against (reference voltage)... perhaps modern voltage regulators are able to work with no reference 12V

[Lazydocker]

that is not a good practice as the alternator varies voltage and can destroy sensitive items hence the name alternator

Indeed it's not good practice, but this was in a much more simple time Plus if you stall/it cuts out for any reason you're screwed

The point I was making is that the battery is only there for starting... Once the engine is running it's only in the circuit for charging purposes

[adey2]

its never been a practice i can say i take up, even if i need to change a battery over and to keep engine running id put my jump pack on it to keep the resistance there, better to be safe than sorry and blow something of importance like a ecu

[feeutfo]

3 year warranty on GM batteries iirc?

65amp hour battery £54.56 a vat on tc.

[Cliffo B]

I got fed up of replaceing batteries every 2yrs
They were top brands also
Last one was a Varta top of the range
I came to the conclusion I had a possible fault
But every thing checked out Ok
In the end I decided to bite the bullet
And go for the same technology as Winifreds buggy batteries
Which I consider over the last 6yrs to have performed superbly
And is still going strong
Absorbent Glass Mat Technology (AGM) would seem to be the answer
Miggy's had this battery installed about 18months
And I've found it to be excellent the electrics appear to me to be sharper and more dynamic
The spec is:-
Make ABX AGM  Model No AX570760
70AH  140min(RC)  760A(EN)
The battery just fits in the holder
Be ready their not cheap I wish I could remember how much it was
But based on performance when the time comes to replace I'll have the same
 
 

[Cliffo B]

If you feel you need further info on these batteries
Google ABXAGM batteries I think it's all there

[Lazydocker]

its never been a practice i can say i take up, even if i need to change a battery over and to keep engine running id put my jump pack on it to keep the resistance there, better to be safe than sorry and blow something of importance like a ecu

As I said, I was talking of simpler times and pre ECU

Also as I said, it's not something I recommend... I just used it as an example that the battery is only there for starting Once the engine is running, the Alternator should always deliver the correct supply and the battery isn't "required" to supply power

[TheBoy]

Never had too much trouble with batteries, apart from when the dozy mare, waiting outside the train station one night for me, thought you needed ign on II to listen to radio...

In my ownership, MV6 has had a single replacement about 4yrs ago (the day I ripped the sump plug off Tractor - I was on way back from dealer ), as it was still original. I think the lack of use that the MV6 used to get then had finally finished the original battery off.

The Elite's original battery is in the garage, on a reconditioner, as that started to sound a bit weak last Autumn (so I slapped the old one on from Goldie).  The Elite's original is used to jump start the bike, which is a constant PITA to start - the battery sounds weak.

My Nova needed a new battery after being 'rediscovered' tidying out the garage, as it had sat for a couple of years.

Other than that, I have never replaced a battery on my cars, including the recently demised Rover, which we bought 12yrs/116k ago. Or my Acclaim, on original battery when I gave to Bro when it was about 12yrs old.  And I tend to keep (most of) my cars a long time.


The ZX10, however, that is an utter pain.  Might be worth considering AGM